Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Thanks to Gary for sending that bottle of Tung Oil!! Gary......it's people like you that make this such a great forum.
Thanks again!!

Uh-oh. How's Gary gonna keep his tung in shape now?

They don't have tung oil in Asheville?

It don't matter, Kris...Craig's tung is well-oiled now!!!

Oil's well that ends well...

You're welcome, Craig.

I still have enough for probably three more aliquots, if anyone else wants some.

Kris-you never heard about the great tung oil incident of Asheville???

Can't say that I have. Must've been a scandal that was covered up - Atlanta usually hears about things like this...

I'm holding my tung on this one.

I don't know about all of the brands that have been mentioned in this thread, but not all products labeled as "Tung Oil", are pure oil. Many "Tung Oil" products (specifically Homer Formby, and Minwax) are actually "wiping varnishes". They do contain some tung, or other oil, but the principle components are made from a very diluted varnish which leaves hard layer behind - which explains why Goofyfoot still has a mark on his D18. Each time that you apply a wiping varnish you leave a trace of hard finish behind. I have applied enough coats of the Formby to a table top that it looks like it has two coats of polyuerathane on it. If your guitar has a pure oil finish, I would strongly recommend that you make sure that you are applying only oil to it. I have a Bass with an oiled wenge/bubinga neck, and I use the Dunlop 02 Fretboard Deep Conditioner on the back of the neck and fretboard. It has a felt applicator built into it - you just apply it from the bottle, and after letting it absorb, wipe it off. I use it on all of my rosewood and ebony fretboards, as well as the bass, and the bottle has lasted 8 years so far. Also, any residue that I have gotten on lacquer (Guild DV-52), or Poly (Fender Strat Ultra) has wiped right off without a trace.