How NOT to adjust your truss rod!

[ajish4]

Just an updqte, SOLD for $760.00 USD, not too bad if it's a quick repair.....

[johnhall]

I've always done with since my first new Fender in 1971. The manual that came with that bass said to lay it on a table and have someone push down on the neck while adjusting the truss rod (truss rod was at body end). All you really want to do is take the forward pull from the strings off the neck as you tighten them. You can do more than snug them up really as long as you don't really crank them a real lot. It's just common sense.

This technique is particularly effective if you also put a book or block of the proper thickness under the neck at about the 12th fret. Don't have another person handy? Use a clamp.

[rickenbrother]

Thanks for the helpful tip, John.

[ram]

I use the arm of my couch... put one of the little throw pillows on the bass' lower body (for a little resistance) and the neck crosses the couch just at the right spot (about the 12th fret). Usually just meeds a little pressure from a finger (on the nut or headstock) to flex the neck.

[grazioso]

Ok, I have to report that it was me who took risk here and I got very lucky with this 4001. Nothing is broken, so it is bit of glue and some cleaning up but not too bad. The worst was that the moron inserted those rods upside down - that popped the fingerboard. It was absolute b*tch to get them out but they are out and complete and nothing is broken so not so bad too. I think with bit of time it will be up and playing in a week. Now to find the trc. I have one in my stash but it is from late 1979 and is hint shorter and doesn't say 4001.

[grazioso]

So well it is not as good as i though and I bought more that I bargained for, I already glued fingerboard back and that is ok, cleaned the rod channels from the debris, fixed neck pickup (yes it was dead). I put it all together today and it seems that the rods are not functioning properly, I cleaned them, re-chased the threads reinserted them, bent the neck to where I wanted it, tight the nuts, but there still is too much of a bow. I am kinda lost now. This never happened to me before, It seems to me that the upper rods don't do the proper thing and are sticking to the bottom rod and pushing forward the spacer so that is where I stopped not to bend the threaded ends downwards. Any advise greatly appreciated! Thanx!

[ajish4]

Sorry to hear it hasn't worked out yet Dusan,

You might want to take this to Paul W's attention.

Hopefully you will find enough help to get it working for you!

[grazioso]

Thanks for kind words. Calling Paul W. Help help! basically, I am wondering how much tape should go between the rods. I have taped it the same way as the original electric tape. It is not loose there - I have no rattle in a ditch. O will take them out again, I am tempted to put bit more tape in between them. Good idea? Bad idea?

[johnallg]

Dusan, my old rods only had a straight piece of black tape laying between the rods - there was no wrap going around them. Remember, the rods, being folded at the far end, need to flex independent of each other, to work against each other, to make them flex in the direction you want the neck to move.

[grazioso]

Thanks. yes that is what I did - I just sandwiched electric tape between them after cleaning them. I think they simply both bend in the same direction inside (one of those cases i wish i had x-ray machine). I'll take them out tonight again and try to put extra one layer of the tape in between from 13th fret to like 2nd if that will get the upper rod engaged in outwards direction from the bottom one..Right now it seems that they both press in the same direction - up - which clearly is not good.

[jingle_jangle]

Hi, Dusan.

Tape-wrapping the rods will inhibit their ability to take a set--tightening one up against the other will cause the proper back curve to counteract string pull. There should be a thin (about 4mm wide) piece of vinyl tape on the inside of each rod half. This is tricky to do, but it's to ease sliding and provide anti-rattle protection.

If unwrapping, taping, and retightening the rods to spec doesn't cure your bow, then there are two more things to do to get it right:

1. A luthier can use either a beam or tape heater, from the fretboard side, to soften the glue. Then clamp in a neck jig and let cool. The rods must be removed for maximum correction.

2. (Also a luthier job...) The fretboard is heated and removed, then the neck clamped in a jig and fretboard put back on, making sure it's dead flat before and after clamping up. Then the rods can do their job.

[grazioso]

Thanks Paul, I can bend the neck by hand completely straight - I can even give it back bow. It is almost 100% straight without string tension. The rods have nothing in their way to go they are not taped around. they are just insulated from one another, that is all. It always worked before. I can only assume they are both bending upwards or downwards together from what I see at the nut area. Threaded ends both aim downwards and the "bite ends" of upper rods push the spacer towards headstock. I think that is sign that they are not separating in the middle. That is why I think the remedy is to put some extra layer in the middle to nudge them where they should go. I'll try when my kids are sleeping - that is going to take a long time - we just got back from annual candy collection. If you have any suggestion how to separate them beside some layer between them I am one big ear for sure.

[jingle_jangle]

Also, did you put a bit of back bow in the rods before inserting them? About 1"-1 1/2" should be sufficient.

These get the rods to bow in the proper direction when you start to snug 'em up.

[grazioso]

Also, did you put a bit of back bow in the rods before inserting them? About 1"-1 1/2" should be sufficient.

These get the rods to bow in the proper direction when you start to snug 'em up.

i'll try that for sure. i forgot about that. they were straight.

[grazioso]

It was the spacer. It had holes about 7/32 or more instead like 3/16 consequently I made new one out of some stock I had around - I sure wish I had some brass around but well aluminum it is. Now slow adjustment during couple days, but it is working.