The bridge thread.....let's be nice and civil....

[woodyng]

hiya jeff! it's clear and cool here in memphis,low 30's. i agree,rickenbacker basses are still my favorite-i can't hardly play one without playing the other 2 also,they are just different enough -i would be locked away for days if i had your collection!

[rickaddict]

hiya jeff! it's clear and cool here in memphis,low 30's. i agree,rickenbacker basses are still my favorite-i can't hardly play one without playing the other 2 also,they are just different enough -i would be locked away for days if i had your collection!

Thanks, Woody! Ahhhh....Collections are over rated! More strings to change, more necks to adjust, more basses to obsess about and tweak, more stuff to trip over in my house...Do I own all these basses, or do they own me?!

Plus, more time spent tweaking one's collection = less time spent practicing/improving.

Three is a nice number!

[aceonbass]

While I think I've only seen one RIC bass with "tail lift" that was a serious problem(Gary Clauson's 5-string Blackstar), any time the end of the tailpiece is not in contact with the body, there will be some drop in sustain and frequency response. It just makes sense that that the more contact the tailpiece and bridge have with the body, the more the strings vibrations will be transmitted to the body. The same principal applies to neck through versus bolt-on neck guitars. I've actually added the two screws to a tailpiece without taking anything apart and heard the difference when I plugged back in. RIC added the two screws on the 4003S/5. The typical B string adds only about 35-40 lbs tension max, which is the difference in tension between a set of nickel and stainless strings. I think the Rather than criticize RIC's part, I chose to modify it, but when some people claim that there's no problem or that it makes no difference....I think that's where this particular discussion gets heated to the critical point.

[weemac]

Nearly all cases of lift are stable and not a threat to the instrument in any way. If it bothers you, have your tailpiece shimmed with wood or use washers to fill in the space. This won't straighten the bend but it will stop it from getting worse. If you don't shim or washer, be careful not to overtighten the three screws under the bridge. Shimming can actually improve the depth and clarity of the low notes by increasing the contact area under the bridge. This was a totally unexpected consequence that made me fall in love with my '80 4001 after suffering years of disappointing low end.

Spot on Ted!
I've found shiming to be the solution to the bends in many basses. After straightning the tailpiece I'll shim it so the front of the tailpiece has the slightest of airgaps (probably about .15mm) and I've found the bend never returns..
I usually use rotosound strings.
However I've never had a BT bass and it's fair to assume that the standard chrome tailpiece may be stronger, as the chrome may impart a stronger surface tension to the diecast material. The BT powercoating will be flexable and will simply go with the flow...

I can really understand why Rickenbacker is taking it's time to develop a new tailpiece as it has to:
Look good...
Function well (easy adjustment)
Sound good (so many sonic comparsions to the old ones)
Not bend..
And appease a contrary lot of fans.... (no easy task) and no matter how well they do it someone will moan about it..

I really don't envy them!

Eden.

[thx1955]

THe lift on my 4003 is negligible, however I can attest to the improvement that shimming provides, I was veryt surprised at the improvement this simple non-intrusive addition made to the sound of my 4003.

Thanks Ted !!!

[aceonbass]

The BT tailpieces were weaker because the heat involved during the powder coating process weakens it. JH was the source of this info.

[weemac]

The BT tailpieces were weaker because the heat involved during the powder coating process weakens it. JH was the source of this info.

I'm sure this is true, I was just thinking that the chrome may also impart "something" to the equation as well. A bit like the case hardening of steel parts...(it's an illformed theory I know)

Eden.

[rickfan60]

I am glad you all found that info useful. The post was intended to address the concerns many Rick owners have about lift and I am glad it was taken that way and did not turn into a brawl. Though there is a strange break in the thread between 12:19 and 12:24 when people started discussing the weather for some reason. I guess I missed something there. If anyone knows of any detail of lift I left out or if anything I said was inaccurate please share.

Dane: Thanks for the info on BT being somewhat weaker.

John Simmons: Torque values make sense. I'll see what I can do.

[thx1955]

Ted / John
Normal engineering practice, torque it till it shears, then, back half a turn !!

[kssound]

Nearly all cases of lift are stable and not a threat to the instrument in any way. If it bothers you, have your tailpiece shimmed with wood or use washers to fill in the space. This won't straighten the bend but it will stop it from getting worse. If you don't shim or washer, be careful not to overtighten the three screws under the bridge. Shimming can actually improve the depth and clarity of the low notes by increasing the contact area under the bridge. This was a totally unexpected consequence that made me fall in love with my '80 4001 after suffering years of disappointing low end.

I just picked up a 72JG player to so I can retire my 74 which has a huge amount of sentimental value. It has about 1/4" of lift, I have no problem with fitting it to the pocket but I'm concerned about damage if I try and bend it back flat. Frankly I was really surprised to see this. Neither my 4001 or 5 string have any lift and I was a bit shocked and surprised when I initially saw it.

Another thing on this one is the truss rod cover. It appears to be clear plastic with the RIC logo painted on the underside in white or light gray and then backed with black paint. It does say "made in USA" like my others but it doesn't have the "4001" like my 74 does. Does this sound like a standard cover?
thanks,
Scooter

[antipodean]

Another thing on this one is the truss rod cover. It appears to be clear plastic with the RIC logo painted on the underside in white or light gray and then backed with black paint. It does say "made in USA" like my others but it doesn't have the "4001" like my 74 does. Does this sound like a standard cover?
thanks,
Scooter

Hi Scooter,

You most likely have a genuine example of the uber-rare black plexi TRC. The "Model 4001" was not universally applied in the early '70s when the plexi TRCs were around. I take it your 4001 is/was white? I believe they were supplied with white Rics and perhaps on special orders on MG or Walnut (coupled with a black pickguard). I believed they were discontinued in '74 or '75.

[aceonbass]

The tailpiece can be bent back, as I've done a few. You'll need to add the two screws, then screw it down to a piece of wood. Carefully bend it flat and even a little bit past that 'cause it will spring back a bit. I had one that had 3/4" of lift that was sold from one forum member to another for a LOT of money. I almost couldn't straighten it. I'd Rather not say who it was

[kssound]

You most likely have a genuine example of the uber-rare black plexi TRC. The "Model 4001" was not universally applied in the early '70s when the plexi TRCs were around. I take it your 4001 is/was white? I believe they were supplied with white Rics and perhaps on special orders on MG or Walnut (coupled with a black pickguard). I believed they were discontinued in '74 or '75.

Well, its hard to tell on this one, its JG black but along the way the neck was re-painted but the rest wasn't. I have quite a bit of restoring work to do and a re-finish is a possibility. I have to completely re-do the wiring and pickups. The pick guard is wrong and there's a small amount of the checkered binding that's come loose and I'll need to get that back in order before I do to much else with it. If I end up stripping it I will probably go with MG or whatever the markings inside the pockets tell me it was originally.

Is there anywhere that pics of the different tr covers are shown? It would be nice to compare and look at the variations over the years and models. I only have my other 2 to compare to and they are both raised letter covers. For that matter is there a pictorial guide that shows the history in colors, options and models anywhere? Kind of an on line museum?
Thanks,
Scooter

[cjj]

Well, there are a lot of pictures of various guitars & basses in the Register on this very site. Many have pictures of the headstock, so you can see what the TRC's look like. After somewhere in the 1974 timeframe, RIC changed from plexi TRC's to molded plastic with raised letters (though I've seem a couple '75's that had plexi). Anyway, you can use the date to narrow down your search in the register.

Speaking of pictures, how about a few of your TRC (as well as the rest of the bass?

[woodyng]

evan said "You most likely have a genuine example of the uber-rare black plexi TRC"

wow,i have something that's uber-rare? cool! i thought the 4000 set-neck was the stepchild,but it still is the easiest-to-play of my 3 ricks....