Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Mods, huh?

I had this little chunk taken out- does that count!
Guess I no longer needed it....

Wha...???

Hmm, I wonder how much you could get on ebay for a vintage Rickenbacker slash style sound hole???

Ha!

cjj wrote: Wha...???

Hmm, I wonder how much you could get on ebay for a vintage Rickenbacker slash style sound hole???

Especially, one in TUR?

cjj wrote: Wha...???

Hmm, I wonder how much you could get on ebay for a vintage Rickenbacker slash style sound hole???

Haha, tons I bet! For all the people that are just tired of their cliche RoMo's....and want to convert back to standard


It was worth the surgery.

Ps......Paul A.-----NOW we can get our Turq's band together ( )

WOW Collin................nice!

WOW...that's the first time I've liked Turquoise...

I did the V/V/T mod to my 4004 but I haven't been so daring with my 6 string Rics. Kinda funny that the bass cost me more $$ than any of my 6 strings but I had no problem taking a drill to it to ream out that mini toggle switch hole for the extra Vol pot..OK, it was a little scary!! I did change out the chrome knobs on my 650D for the vintage style black plastic ones. No power tools required for that one. It 's now got a slightly retro vibe and definitely toned down that big chrome pickguard!!

In my both my 480 and 620 I put a 12K toaster with the 0.0047 cap in the bridge and a Ric HB (with a toaster cover) in the neck position. The bridge by itself can be a little thin and brittle and the HB by itself can be a little warm and nasal, but when blended together it's wonderful. You get the chime mixed with added sustain and punch. I love it. However, I am considering the add of the push/pull on the 0.0047 cap.

still waiting on the toasters...

Can I join in the fun?

Here's a before-and-after of my 320 with her tailpiece mod. OK, it's not very daring, but I also modded the fifth knob to act as middle volume control.

On my '91 360WB FG, I added a white plexi TRC with trimmed and polished edges, made new, matching, back-painted guards, also with polished edges, put a toaster at the neck position and a high-gain modified to take a toaster cover in the bridge position and ran them through the standard 5-knob system to the normal mono output jack. Then I added a middle toaster, added a sixth knob to serve as a volume control for it and ran it all by itself to the other output jack. Using a Y-cord, I run the two outputs to different amps or amp channels (usually running the neck/bridge circuit through a JangleBox first and the middle circuit straight in) blending the two circuits to get the mix I want. If I don't want to mess with the stereo thing, a mono cord into the normal jack gives me what is essentially a normal 360/12. Then it went out to Dr. Arnquist for treatment of my fat-fingertips ailment. He replaced the wimpy truss rod bar (which was digging into the wood) with a vintage-style aluminum block, carefully-shaped to fit the hole properly, added a twelve-saddle bridge after deburring it and shaping the saddles to eliminate rough, sharp edges, repositioned the bridge plate for better intonation, centered it properly with the neck and de-burred the underside of the R tailpiece. Then he pulled all the frets, stripped the fingerboard, re-fretted it with frets all the way out to the edges of the binding for maximum finger-room and replaced the nut. The new nut has pretty close spacing of the pairs and uses as much neck width up top as was available. For me, it made a huge difference in playability. Recently I switched the pot for the sixth knob (middle pickup volume) with a push/pull pot and the jack with a switched jack. John Allgaier helped me by assembling a copy of the old Vox treble booster circuit from a diagram I found and we tried installing it inside the body to see what it would do. We used the input jack switch to turn the battery on and off when a cord was plugged in or removed and the push/pull pot would turn the booster on or off. Everything worked great except the booster - which, as rumored, was really aggressive sounding in a nasty sort of way and not very useful. I may try sticking a little on-board compressor or some other effect in there to replace it. Other than that stuff, the guitar is completely stock
It's probably not everyone's taste in Rickenbackers, but it looks great, plays great and sounds even better. If I ever get run over by a bus or something, you will want to bid on this guitar.

Well its been a while and i managed to get my hands on some toasters to finish the 360 off.So one finished guitar(i would like to thank Mark for the heads up and Paul G for the wiring tips cheers)

scotty wrote:Well its been a while and i managed to get my hands on some toasters to finish the 360 off.So one finished guitar(i would like to thank Mark for the heads up and Paul G for the wiring tips cheers)

Wow, Scotty, I didn't know you were planning that. That looks swell. Tell us all about the difference in sound.

Hey, here's a little idea I'm trying out. "R" tailpiece for the 430. Let me know how you like it.

Lookin good Kira.I take it your gonna paint that guitar and fill the holes from the bigsby? I think the new ajustable higains on that guitar would look Amazing.Now who has 2