Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

beatlefreak wrote:

marc61 wrote:2 - I get second degree burns(possible, if I mishandle the soldering iron)

Just be sure to grab the thick end of the iron, and if it falls off the table - DON'T try to catch it in mid-air.

I actually watched a co-worker do that. Guess which end he grabbed? Let's just say he didn't hang on for long.

Here's the iron, flux and solder I picked up today.

I have a couple of tips from my other iron. They should do the trick

Wow! High tech! Mine looks like this:

Marc's has a flashlight on it so he can solder in the dark!

Paul W recommended 50 watts. It's funny the package doesn't show the specs but, it mentions being stronger than 60 watts. Let's hope so

The difference between the two above is that Marc's is a low-voltage DC model and John's an AC 110V model.

Aside from that, there's the handle and the light...I've used the ones like John's got for years; never tried out one of the DC ones. You'll know the first time you try to heat a pot case. If it takes more than about 45 seconds, you've got some slooowww going...

I've been using a butane one for years. It works great.

Yup those we need to heat up quick.

An important point for novice solderers - Whether you're using an iron or a solder station, be sure to keep the soldering tip tinned. This means applying a bit of solder to the tip in between uses. It keeps the tip from oxidizing and burning up. The tip will last much longer, and transfer heat better.

kiramdear wrote:I've been using a butane one for years. It works great.

Don't get caught by your local po-leece with one of these (or a micro-torch) in your glove box. A friend had his car thoroughly gone through because of this...

jingle_jangle wrote:

kiramdear wrote:I've been using a butane one for years. It works great.

Don't get caught by your local po-leece with one of these (or a micro-torch) in your glove box. A friend had his car thoroughly gone through because of this...

You should talk, with your pot case and all!

Well, I ordered the custom pickguard today. Soon as it comes back, I'll be ready to wire!

jingle_jangle wrote:No premades that I'm aware of...especially to accommodate stacked pots. Is there enough depth in the body routs for these?

Well, I finally got the pickguard. You're right Paul. The body has to be routed. Two issues...I don't have a router..and not sure if I want to start routing a really nice instrument. I've been searching for an inexpensive Jazzmaster body for some time.

arrrgghhh...I'm not giving up though. This project HAS to be made.

In lieu of routing, Marc, you can do what the Rick factory used to do, and pick up a Forstner bit about 1 1/4" in diameter if they're full-sized pots. You can use this to drill out the pot relief areas. A drill press is best though you could use a drill motor if you're careful, and you'll want to leave about 1/8" of meat under each hole--watch out for the center spur on the bit, too, or you'll poke through.

Then you can use a smaller ordinary wood drill bit to connect the pot reliefs, for the wires.

No router needed, about $10-15 for the Forstner, and Bob's yer uncle...

...isn't he?

Actually, it's not the pots that are the problem. It's the pickup routes. They need to be deeper for the humbuckers. I need 1" depth, or basically to route the pickup area down to the level of the control area.

This isn't my guitar, but just for example purposes, the entire routed area would need to be flat or evened, if you understand what I mean.