Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I believe the "new" Schaller bridge (it's actually like the ones they used on the 2030/2050 back in the late '80s) has a thin matching mounting plate, and you could remove it and reinstall the bridge. Check to make sure the screws are not too long as you'll be that much closer to coming through the back of the body!!!

I've made my order, now just have to wait. Was thinking, I know very dangerous, if one goes with a V/T V/T arrangement can the three position switch then be used as a coil tap on the pickups? Up position for the neck and down for the bridge. Sounds too easy.

aceonbass wrote:Not only was the ABM bridge replaced by the Schaller around 2008, but the top of the fretboard is closer to the body too on these, so there should be plenty of room to lower the action without removing the bridge spacer. Make sure your neck is adjusted flat first. This has a big effect on action. Also, I found that just removing the saddle height adjusting screws left the saddles all at the perfect height with the strings in a nice arc. An added benefit was a little more solid sound as the saddles were now making full contact with the bridge plate.

Ok, well I might try tweaking the trussrods then,its more noticable on the E string. I will do it myself as most guitar tec's downunder wouldn't have even seen a Ric' in the flesh let alone worked on one. Are Ric necks supposed to be dead straight as opposed to slightly concave like Fenders?
I've never adjusted trussrods before

aceonbass wrote:Not only was the ABM bridge replaced by the Schaller around 2008, but the top of the fretboard is closer to the body too on these, so there should be plenty of room to lower the action without removing the bridge spacer. Make sure your neck is adjusted flat first. This has a big effect on action. Also, I found that just removing the saddle height adjusting screws left the saddles all at the perfect height with the strings in a nice arc. An added benefit was a little more solid sound as the saddles were now making full contact with the bridge plate.

It was still high for me on my '08 cii ,until I removed it , one could argue it sounds better with the bridge making contact to the body but seriously it's now at the perfect height for me , which is nice and low . For the record the screws did not come through the body .. pheew

I also removed the bridge spacer on my '08 Trans red, great low action now! The schaller is way better than the old ABM bridge IMO.

Thanks guys for the pic's & info about removing the bridge spacer

I have just converted my Cheyenne ii to vo/vol/tone. I would like to thank the USA forum members that offered me a 3rd genuine Ric' gold knob in the market place, but i found these QParts knobs in NZ, alot closer to home, they are gold with tort' shell top. I think they look briliant!
Just after taking these pic's I removed the mounting plate from the bridge, now have super low action.
Thanks to the forum members for the inspiration to do these mods.
........

wow-not to be a copycat,but i love those knobs! the tortoise tops compliment the bubinga fretboard nicely. may i have the name of the manufacturer?

Yes, those knobs DO look nice! Do they make a stacked knob set?

found it-check out qparts.com-the knobs are in the acrylic selections,for $8 each.

I like those controls knobs also! Very nice.

marcinkus wrote:I also removed the bridge spacer on my '08 Trans red, great low action now! The schaller is way better than the old ABM bridge IMO.

+1 I also removed the spacer plate from my '08 TB 4004Cii, and my '08 MG 4004Cii (the very 1st Cii made with the UV cured finish) was built without a spacer plate beneath the bridge. Love the Schaller bridges - so easy to dial in the perfect setup.

woodyng wrote:found it-check out qparts.com-the knobs are in the acrylic selections,for $8 each.

The knobs come with an inner sleeve so they fit on skinnier split shafts, to fit the Ric' shaft you just remove the inner sleeve.