Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

aceonbass wrote:

cjj wrote:OK, thanks all, I feel better now knowing that mine cane from the factory that way.Looks like maybe I could use a maple block or two...

I'd make a one piece brass block that goes all the way accross. The rod ends would probably bend less if this block were one piece.

Yeah, not a bad idea. But, so far, I've got no issues with the setup, so changing it seems a bit pointless. I If I ever have reason to mess with it, I'll make a brass one...

So, gang, any ideas on who the heck could do this? Should I look in the yellow pages (so to speak) for metalworks?

jdogric12 wrote:So, gang, any ideas on who the heck could do this? Should I look in the yellow pages (so to speak) for metalworks?

If you have the original one off the bass with the proper spacing you can mail it to me and I will fabricate one to match.

jdogric12 wrote:So, gang, any ideas on who the heck could do this? Should I look in the yellow pages (so to speak) for metalworks?

Well, you could go to just about any machine shop, and pay them $100/hour to do it. Or, you could go buy a drill (if you don't already have one - it's a handy tool to have anyway), a drill bit set (doesn't have to be a big set 'cause the hole size isn't super critical), a piece of brass or aluminum stock (probably can find something at a decent hardware store), a Hack saw and a file and make it yourself all for less than the cost of the machine shop. Plus, you'll have some tools to use for other stuff. Whatever chunk of metal you buy, you'll likely have enough to make several in case you mess the first one up...

Really? Ok, cool, I didn't think it would be that easy. Thanks CJ!

I believe aluminum was originally used so that the unthreaded end of the truss rod would bite into the spacer. It will also help lock the nuts in position. Brass is a bit hard for that.

How about cutting the spacer in half? Could that work?

And who says the blocks have to be rectangular. Why not just use a washer and a nut?

Anyone? Paul W?

ilan wrote:How about cutting the spacer in half? Could that work?

And who says the blocks have to be rectangular. Why not just use a washer and a nut?

Anyone? Paul W?

They fit into a squared hole, so the shape is fairly important!

Eden.

weemac wrote:

ilan wrote:How about cutting the spacer in half? Could that work?

And who says the blocks have to be rectangular. Why not just use a washer and a nut?

Anyone? Paul W?

They fit into a squared hole, so the shape is fairly important!

Eden.

!!!!!

weemac wrote: They fit into a squared hole, so the shape is fairly important!

You see, I didn't know that.

ilan wrote:

weemac wrote: They fit into a squared hole, so the shape is fairly important!

You see, I didn't know that.

I did not mean to sound insulting or anything like that, I can see reading my post that it could come across a bit arrogantly. It was not meant to at all. Just spilling the little details...

Eden.

Assorted sizes & thicknesses of small metal stock can be found at hobby shops, True Value, etc. I used to use a hand held drill for metal, but since I got a drill press, it seems easier, safer and more accurate. Picked one up at one of those Mr. Money places for under $30. I found a bench grinder on Craigslist to de-burr/smoothen cut edges, but you could use a hand file for that. Once you have those, you'll be fabricating nice metal parts for all sorts of other chores on the honey-do list.

coolhandjjl wrote:I used to use a hand held drill for metal, but since I got a drill press, it seems easier, safer and more accurate.

Yes, that's true. A hand drill can get the job done, but there are definitely better tools out there. I've got a drill press, but a lot of the time I end up using this...

weemac wrote: I did not mean to sound insulting or anything like that

We're cool, I didn't think it was insulting or arrogant in any way, I really didn't know that fact and I'm glad to have learned something new, like I learn here every day.