Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Tommy wrote:

eljayski wrote: anyone else experiencing this problem?

Yes, I am experiencing it.

My 20 year old 360/12 has a dodgey switch. It sputters, it cuts out, I have to shake it a bit until it gets the pickups I selected going. It's been doing that for a few years. I am hoping all that is required to fix is some contact spray.

No contact spray, that won't fix the problem. You need to very lightly sand the contacts with something like emory cloth, and using a needlenose pliers, re-bend the metal tabs that the plastic barrel makes contact with to hold the bat in place.

jps wrote:

Tommy wrote:

eljayski wrote: anyone else experiencing this problem?

Yes, I am experiencing it.

My 20 year old 360/12 has a dodgey switch. It sputters, it cuts out, I have to shake it a bit until it gets the pickups I selected going. It's been doing that for a few years. I am hoping all that is required to fix is some contact spray.

No contact spray, that won't fix the problem. You need to very lightly sand the contacts with something like emory cloth, and using a needlenose pliers, re-bend the metal tabs that the plastic barrel makes contact with to hold the bat in place.

I would strongly advise against using any abrasive and also bending tabs at all, or until you have tried this.....

Use a credit card and a small piece of fine cotton (bedsheet), wrap the cotton over one edge of the card, apply dab both sides of the cloth with Deoxit or Carbon Tet, slide the card in between a pair of contacts and polish. For real corrosion use some metal polish first then finish with Deoxit.

Thanks, Seanss and jps, for both pieces of advice.
I will eventually get around to working on that switch.

Here's a pic after a tiny dab of chrome polish.....

Seans wrote:Here's a pic after a tiny dab of chrome polish.....

Is it just me or did that picture show a pickup switch that looks older than a 2010? For comparison, here's a pic of my 2002 360/12 (with factory wiring):

stsang wrote:

Seans wrote:Here's a pic after a tiny dab of chrome polish.....

Is it just me or did that picture show a pickup switch that looks older than a 2010? For comparison, here's a pic of my 2002 360/12 (with factory wiring):

IMG_9813 - Copy.JPG

That's a 1991, what made you think it's a 2010. Only difference I can see on yours is a dedicated earth lug.

collin wrote:I think they all get switches from the same company (switchcraft), who has made them for decades. Gibson, Rickenbacker, Fender, Gretsch...all of em.

I'll think you'll find quite a few Asian sourced switches in most other brands these days, however, we proudly only use Switchcraft components out of Chicago.

Keep them clean, lubed, and properly adjusted . . . and they'll last a lifetime, just as they did in the original telephone operator consoles, for which they were developed.

Seans wrote:That's a 1991, what made you think it's a 2010. Only difference I can see on yours is a dedicated earth lug.

My mistake, I mixed up your photo with what the initial poster of this topic said:

eljayski wrote:both purchased in 2010; i'm original owner; both in pristine condition, never leave the house.

Ahh, easily done.

I don't think that the Switchcraft design has changed at all for decades, until of course the intro of the earth lug.

johnhall wrote:Keep them clean, lubed, and properly adjusted . . . and they'll last a lifetime, just as they did in the original telephone operator consoles, for which they were developed.

On the other hand, the switch in my 32 year-old Rickenbacker has never been adjusted, cleaned, or lubed, and still works flawlessly and without any noise.

Grey wrote:

johnhall wrote:Keep them clean, lubed, and properly adjusted . . . and they'll last a lifetime, just as they did in the original telephone operator consoles, for which they were developed.

On the other hand, the switch in my 32 year-old Rickenbacker has never been adjusted, cleaned, or lubed, and still works flawlessly and without any noise.

Same with my '76, 36 years and still works perfectly...

Never had any issues with the switches on my 1991 330/12 or my 2010 360/12 either!

so I don't need to worry about the old tremolo effect of open chord + switch jiggling wearing this switch out?

The Switchcraft switches may look a bit antiquated, but they're very solidly built and when something does go wrong everything is right out in the open, so it's easy to identify and fix the problem. Sometimes simpler is just better.

It sounds more like jack issues with the ROS finger getting a bit of corrosion in it rather than the switches. But if it is the switches, Mr. JH has commented on cleaning the contacts with a small piece of a pencil eraser and gently bending with needle nose pliers the contacts or stops that don't want to stay in a particular position.