I've been using a Marshall DSL40C with a Creamback for a year or so since my AC-30 TBX got too heavy for my age. It has a great clean channel for the 12 string & a crunch setting on the same "green channel" that handles my pedal board fine. I have zero use for the "red" hi-gain channels where all the people try to mod these amps for that metal stuff.
If you want to hear the ultimate amp for a Ric 12 stringer, its a Hylite-Hiwatt DR-103 with a Fane loaded 4x12 cabinet. Undescribable!
Rickenbacker with Marshall Amps
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
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gwatkins15
- New member
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2015 7:36 pm
- superheavydeathmetal
- Junior Member
- Posts: 199
- Joined: Fri Dec 06, 2013 1:46 am
Re: Rickenbacker with Marshall Amps
For whatever it's worth, I run the bridge pickup of my Rick basses into a Line 6 POD using the 1968 Plexi Jump Lead model, and the result is tone Heaven!
Gilmourisgod wrote:I never really "got" what a Rick is capable of until I ran it stereo a few times in my college band. We used to call it the "Piano of Doom". You get all the bottom and all the top in total a**kicking mode.
Re: Rickenbacker with Marshall Amps
I used to have a 1975 2203 (first year of production for the first master volume model). I got inside of it and took out the 2nd input jack, replacing it with a 50 kohm linear taper pot so that I could adjust the "bright" capacitor that bridged the input volume, or gain control.
I then had my tech re-bias it from 6550's to EL34's - 6CA7's. Then I got a quad of "big bottle" Electro-harmonix 6CA7's, which bias like EL34's, but have 6550 plates, and sound like a 6L6GC on steroids.
I ran it through a modified (sealed up the bass ports with fiberglass insulation) Fender 4X12 angled-baffle bassman cabinet with four Jensen "Concert 12" speakers installed - imagine a Greenback with more top end and a little more clarity.
With the controls dimed, including all three top end controls - the presence, treble, and the "bright" pot, I had clean, over-the-top headroom, sustain and jangle in spades.
Or, I could turn everything to 12:00, crank the pre gain, and have classic Marshall grind and sustain.
Or, I could drop the pre and the treble, take the master to about 4, and have really nice, clean, mellow to run jazzy stuff through a neck pickup.
Before I purchased it, the amp had actually been through a meltdown and had been rebuilt once (literally - the plastic vent on the top had actually melted into a trough shape - a great place to put a slide and a spare pre-amp tube), and the prior owner had spray painted the original buff colored tolex black. So there was no "restoring" it - just make it playable, which my tech at the time and I did, including adding the "safety" resistors so if a tube shorted out, they would act like fuses and pop the offending tube out of the output circuit to save everything else (fortunately, that never happened as I didn't run the bias quite as hot as some folks do).
Finally, the years of abuse took its toll on the output transformer, and I sold it to a sound reinforcement company, who rebuilt it for back-line rental.
Oh, playing live, it was literally a monster rig with tone, sustain, jangle, and carry all the way to next Tuesday, or you could pull one of the two pairs of output tubes and play smaller gigs or practice in the bedroom with no loss of tone or offense to the neighbors.
I then had my tech re-bias it from 6550's to EL34's - 6CA7's. Then I got a quad of "big bottle" Electro-harmonix 6CA7's, which bias like EL34's, but have 6550 plates, and sound like a 6L6GC on steroids.
I ran it through a modified (sealed up the bass ports with fiberglass insulation) Fender 4X12 angled-baffle bassman cabinet with four Jensen "Concert 12" speakers installed - imagine a Greenback with more top end and a little more clarity.
With the controls dimed, including all three top end controls - the presence, treble, and the "bright" pot, I had clean, over-the-top headroom, sustain and jangle in spades.
Or, I could turn everything to 12:00, crank the pre gain, and have classic Marshall grind and sustain.
Or, I could drop the pre and the treble, take the master to about 4, and have really nice, clean, mellow to run jazzy stuff through a neck pickup.
Before I purchased it, the amp had actually been through a meltdown and had been rebuilt once (literally - the plastic vent on the top had actually melted into a trough shape - a great place to put a slide and a spare pre-amp tube), and the prior owner had spray painted the original buff colored tolex black. So there was no "restoring" it - just make it playable, which my tech at the time and I did, including adding the "safety" resistors so if a tube shorted out, they would act like fuses and pop the offending tube out of the output circuit to save everything else (fortunately, that never happened as I didn't run the bias quite as hot as some folks do).
Finally, the years of abuse took its toll on the output transformer, and I sold it to a sound reinforcement company, who rebuilt it for back-line rental.
Oh, playing live, it was literally a monster rig with tone, sustain, jangle, and carry all the way to next Tuesday, or you could pull one of the two pairs of output tubes and play smaller gigs or practice in the bedroom with no loss of tone or offense to the neighbors.
- nick_st_hilaire
- New member
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Tue Mar 01, 2005 1:40 pm
Re: Rickenbacker with Marshall Amps

Clone of a 1974 20 watt bluesbreaker amp with two 1X12 cabs. Playing cleans on the edge of breakup with alot of spank/clang/chime and boosting for distortion.

