Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

espidog wrote:

bluewhale wrote: The one item on your list that had already occurred to me is "drilling too deep and going through the body." Makes me queasy just typing the words.

Easily avoided, fortunately - you just sit your drill bit deep into the chuck so that only the right length of drill is protruding. If the drill bit won't sit deep enough in the chuck, you can buy a little adjustable device that fits onto your drill and prevents it going beyond a set depth.

You can also wrap some colored tape round the drill bit at the appropriate depth, something bright and easily seen

thx1955 wrote:Consider fitting one of the newly designed Ric tailpieces, they are solid and hopefully are immune to lift, they do require additional holes drilled but come supplied with a template to accurately locate the new holes.Once fitted the holes are not visible

Or .... a Chrome Hipshot drop in would work as well.

Very interesting. Many thanks !


I bought one of the new 5-hole bridges as used.
The screws were included and also a invoice.
But there was no template.

I would be very interested in what this template looks like.
Maybe someone has a picture of it?

There is some confusion here. The "NEW" tailpiece/bridge that RIC has introduced recently can be installed to replace the old style. It has a separate string anchor that is installed first and then covered by the tailpiece. That's the one that has a template. If you bought a five-screw tailpiece "used", then you have the old style that has the separate bridge that sits into a depression in the tailpiece. That tailpiece/bridge will be fine and will look almost "vintage". It will also be less prone to tail lift than the tailpiece they used on the C64. It was made to look "more vintage" by using only three screws (under the bridge). But without those two extra screws, these tend to lift.

So in short, use what you have. Install it with the three screws under the bridge first, then just drill the holes for the other two supplementary screws using the tailpiece as the template. Measure carefully, of course; you don't want to drill too deep - or through - the body!

If you can do it with a drill press that has depth stop on it, that will be much safer.

Tape marked bits don't really prevent accidents, the add-on depth stop collar will though.

Good luck,
Dirk

espidog wrote:

bluewhale wrote: The one item on your list that had already occurred to me is "drilling too deep and going through the body." Makes me queasy just typing the words.

Easily avoided, fortunately - you just sit your drill bit deep into the chuck so that only the right length of drill is protruding. If the drill bit won't sit deep enough in the chuck, you can buy a little adjustable device that fits onto your drill and prevents it going beyond a set depth.

Or a common method is to simply wrap a piece of tape around the bit at the correct depth, and stop drilling when the tape reaches the body.

farace wrote:

espidog wrote:

bluewhale wrote: The one item on your list that had already occurred to me is "drilling too deep and going through the body." Makes me queasy just typing the words.

Easily avoided, fortunately - you just sit your drill bit deep into the chuck so that only the right length of drill is protruding. If the drill bit won't sit deep enough in the chuck, you can buy a little adjustable device that fits onto your drill and prevents it going beyond a set depth.

Or a common method is to simply wrap a piece of tape around the bit at the correct depth, and stop drilling when the tape reaches the body.

Hint: do not use clear tape for this (no, I've never did so). Blue painter's tape work perfectly. Another hint: pay close attention to what you're doing!

Dirk wrote:If you can do it with a drill press that has depth stop on it, that will be much safer. Good luck,
Dirk

You can't use a drill press for this because the rear of the tailpiece where these two screws go is not level with the top of the body. The holes need to be drilled and countersunk at an angle which continues when the screws make contact with the body.

aceonbass wrote:

Dirk wrote:If you can do it with a drill press that has depth stop on it, that will be much safer. Good luck,
Dirk

You can't use a drill press for this because the rear of the tailpiece where these two screws go is not level with the top of the body. The holes need to be drilled and countersunk at an angle which continues when the screws make contact with the body.

And I think using the tailpiece in position as you drill the holes helps establish the proper angle. Just be careful.

bassduke49 wrote:... using the tailpiece in position as you drill the holes helps establish the proper angle ...

Another good tip - thank you.

Dane there are certainly ways to use a drill press at an angle.

I made the tape bit mistake Once many years ago drilling for tuners on a headstock.
You think you're not putting much pressure and suddenly, you're through the other side.

It sounds like a great idea to use the already attached bridge to help direct the last screws.
Indeed angle drilling has it's challenges for sure.

Good luck Steve, as has been said before, plan it out, and take your time.
Dirk

Another option to consider is to use a stop collar on the drill bit. You can buy a set of drills w/ the collars, or just the collars themselves.

https://www.homedepot.com/s/drill%2520b ... ler?NCNI-5

Lowe’s calls these depth stops... https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-7-Piece ... p/50041538

Home Depot collars are split ring, and Lowe’s are secured by direct engagement of the Allen screw. I’m not sure which type would be more securely attached to maintain their position during use; I’m thinking split ring....

Tricky business — no true E-Z drill option. Good luck.

bassduke49 wrote:There is some confusion here. The "NEW" tailpiece/bridge that RIC has introduced recently can be installed to replace the old style. It has a separate string anchor that is installed first and then covered by the tailpiece. That's the one that has a template. If you bought a five-screw tailpiece "used", then you have the old style that has the separate bridge that sits into a depression in the tailpiece. That tailpiece/bridge will be fine and will look almost "vintage". It will also be less prone to tail lift than the tailpiece they used on the C64. It was made to look "more vintage" by using only three screws (under the bridge). But without those two extra screws, these tend to lift.

So in short, use what you have. Install it with the three screws under the bridge first, then just drill the holes for the other two supplementary screws using the tailpiece as the template. Measure carefully, of course; you don't want to drill too deep - or through - the body!

Ah many thanks.

I must have misunderstood something there.
I have probably overlooked the fact that it was about the new tailpiece.

I have Hipshots on two of mine and love them. Much easier to install than the new Rick piece. Intonation is easy as well.

espidog wrote:

bluewhale wrote: The one item on your list that had already occurred to me is "drilling too deep and going through the body." Makes me queasy just typing the words.

Easily avoided, fortunately - you just sit your drill bit deep into the chuck so that only the right length of drill is protruding. If the drill bit won't sit deep enough in the chuck, you can buy a little adjustable device that fits onto your drill and prevents it going beyond a set depth.

...or put a piece of shrink wrap tubing over the bit exposing the business end (shiny part) of the correct depth, use screw length as a reference.

seabass wrote:I have Hipshots on two of mine and love them. Much easier to install than the new Rick piece. Intonation is easy as well.

What sort of action do you use? I’ve read various reports stating that they won’t go low enough or that there are issues with rattle or insufficient break angle with low action. As someone who likes super-low action that’s always put me off; I don’t want to buy a bridge and go through the hassle of fitting only to find it won’t work with my setup.