Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

knavel wrote:...a 60s toaster from the parts box.

Cue the sound of me dying of envy (*sigh*)

knavel wrote: And one has to go to the "dark web" for a plexi truss rod cover!

There ya go

No affiliation, just a heads-up.

espidog wrote:

knavel wrote:...a 60s toaster from the parts box.

Cue the sound of me dying of envy (*sigh*)

Just got lucky there. I used to watch eBay and I think there was a 360/5 new style poorly described, mislabeled or the like. I got it and the neck had a divot and crack in it. So I took the parts (or some of them) and cast it back into the sea making the damage very clear. I figured those parts vultures Gibson dependable would turn up and pounce. And they did, and the husk was on eBay a week later with no mention of the neck damage whatsoever.

ilan wrote:

knavel wrote: And one has to go to the "dark web" for a plexi truss rod cover!

There ya go

No affiliation, just a heads-up.

I'd learn how to work plexi before I paid that price! Plus there is no guarantee of matching fit. I grabbed my ankles instead for the price of the Lollar as a proper horseshoe is worth the beans to me.

My 2016 trod cover is off and stayin off. I need trod adjustments about every season so I just leave mine off.

lumgimfong wrote:My 2016 trod cover is off and stayin off. I need trod adjustments about every season so I just leave mine off.

Just so long as you never forget where you put it...

Do you get big seasonal changes in temperature/humidity where you live, Michael? Just curious...

Just waiting for one of Tony's fine Pickguardian vintage guards.

Is that your milling machine?

I think it's a router.

That's called a Knee Mill in generic terms. (see also Bridgeport, etc.)
The R8 collets are affixed with a drawbar in the spindle.
The collets are visible under the DRO (Digital Read Out aka running on scales.)
Motion/location in the X and Y axis are controlled by Acme threaded lead screws.
CNCs use ball screws to eliminate backlash. That task is left to the operator on a manual knee mill.
Still, they are easily capable of plus/minus .001 inch.
I would think the biggest problem with routing with one would be the lack of cutter surface speed.
Dedicated routers run at 20,000 RPM plus, whereas a knee mill would rarely be capable of anything more than 8000 rpm or so.

With regards to the sound of the 1/2 inch toaster, every single one of my favourite-sounding Ricks out of all the hundreds I’ve played has had this configuration. Not a single one has had a 1 inch high gain; in fact until I played a Rick with a 1/2 inch toaster I was never happy with any of the Ricks I owned or played. That’s my 2 cents. I think the 1/2 inch toaster is the most important part of the classic Rick sound, for me.

espidog wrote:I think it's a router.

I don’t know a single person who owns a piece of kit like that!

henry5 wrote:I think the 1/2 inch toaster is the most important part of the classic Rick sound, for me.

Ditto! Same with right up against the end of the neck.

jps wrote:

henry5 wrote:I think the 1/2 inch toaster is the most important part of the classic Rick sound, for me.

Ditto! Same with right up against the end of the neck.

I wish you guys felt otherwise. That is a very hardcore mod and hard for me to swallow. Although I do remember turning the screws into the body to set a Bigsby B5 in place on a 325c58. That feeling the instant before the event is never pleasant.

Eh, it's only wood!
I've got maple trees growing in my front yard.