Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Here are some pics. Enjoy!
One thing I like about the Dual Design straplok buttons is that they are so tall that they can alter the balance of the instrument a little.
So it can be fun to use one or both depending on which way you want the bass to fall/hang.
I am using both and was using both when I had this one on the horn before.

My 71 had a hole drilled at the heel for this purpose. I had it plugged and spot finished by a pro.

Did you try it out with a strap button there first?

He used a suction cup, a brilliant way to try things out.
It's on the first page of posts.

UPDATE:

Been playing it like this for a while now and today thought I would try switching back to the old button on the cresting wave spot to see how it felt compared to the new neck heel position.
No contest.
For me the neck heel position is best. Balances better, neck closer, headstock higher, neck more forward (easier to see without craning neck around). I am keeping it this way.
Now only question is:
What to put on to cover up the old strap button hole that was on the cresting wave? Sticker? Adhesive diamond?

Fill the hole with wood?

An easy solution for the leftover hole would be to screw in a ...strap pin! That way you'd have no iffy "repair" problems and it would look totally stock.

espidog wrote:An easy solution for the leftover hole would be to screw in a ...strap pin! That way you'd have no iffy "repair" problems and it would look totally stock.

+1

You could just fill it in by using a 10-24 machine screw (bolt), similar to the ones I have used to make my own strapbolts using Schaller-style buttons.
The bolt doesn't have to be full length, just long enough to fit securely. A flat head screw (if available) would give more of a flush fit with the surface.

doctorwho wrote:A flat head screw (if available) would give more of a flush fit with the surface.

Wouldn't one want to countersink the hole so that top of the flathead screw sits flush with the surface? Otherwise, there would a protruding, possibly sharpish edge are the way around the screw head.

lumgimfong wrote:UPDATE:

Been playing it like this for a while now and today thought I would try switching back to the old button on the cresting wave spot to see how it felt compared to the new neck heel position.
No contest.
For me the neck heel position is best. Balances better, neck closer, headstock higher, neck more forward (easier to see without craning neck around). I am keeping it this way.
Now only question is:
What to put on to cover up the old strap button hole that was on the cresting wave? Sticker? Adhesive diamond?

I’m used to SG’s V’s explorers and double cutaway treble guitars so I’m familiar with the neck heel position for a strap button.

I guess I never thought to try it on a geetar with a horn.

I have a Firebird that has a strap button on both the heel and where the non-horn is, I have one of those tiny Gibson style strap buttons there and it doesn’t look out of place. I have another geetar that has two buttons as well but I can’t remember which one, maybe an explorer?

What does your current bass have at the horn? The older Ric’s have strap buttons that are exactly the same as the mute height screws. That would look nice just to leave on the horn.




Edit: that looks classy but still unobtrusive…

jps wrote:

doctorwho wrote:A flat head screw (if available) would give more of a flush fit with the surface.

Wouldn't one want to countersink the hole so that top of the flathead screw sits flush with the surface? Otherwise, there would a protruding, possibly sharpish edge are the way around the screw head.

Yep, I don't know why I was thinking of a beveled hole as on a pickguard ...

My 2016 came with a stock Ric shaller strap button compatible strap button.
The threads are like machine threads.
My Dunlop strap button was wood threads, so the original will not go back in unless I do the matchstick thing but I would rather just cover it up with like a decorative sticky diamond or something and not a strap button.