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Posted: Sun Apr 04, 2004 6:24 pm
by jwr2
hey Dane ... here's your bass ... I like it ... a five string conversion ... cool ...

Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2004 10:24 am
by paul_yan
Welcome aboard, Mike.
Nice V63 MG!
Yes the '98 (and all pre-2001) intonation screws are very soft and get stripped easily. I replaced them with black screws of the same specs (4/40 thread, .725" length) with hex slot on the head that can be easily turned by the RIC bridge adjustment wrench. No more wicked angle with a Philips screw driver and no more stripped slots.
Go to your hardware store and see if you can find the hex slotted screws.
My way of keeping the screws from backing out is to start with the intonation sharp on all strings and turn the screws clockwise until I get perfect intonation. Turning them counterclockwise will always make them back out, IMHO.
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2004 10:32 am
by marc61
Paul, thanks! I didn't even ask and you helped me out with a big problem. On my 73, the saddles have no screws. Off to Home Depot!
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2004 10:40 am
by marc61
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2004 10:45 am
by rictified
I just loosen the string completely that I want to intonate and have no problems, I use a small phillips head screw driver that fits almost straight in to the screw, loosening the string until it's completely loose is a must though. That way you can leave the bridge in and just tighten it up after the adjustment to see if your intonation is ok. It's a pain loosening all the strings and taking the bridge out and takes forever, the trial and error method I call it.
If your screws won't go all the way in, it could need countersinking as was mentioned or the holes on the opposite side of the bridge need to be enlarged a little to allow the ends of the screws to protrude through them as they are supposed to.
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2004 10:59 am
by paul_yan
Marc, the machine screws in the link you posted seem to have no "countersink" heads. And I frankly can't understand the specs listing in that page haha!
The best way to find the right screws is to take one of yours (and the '73 bridge as well) to Home Depot and get the ones in exactly the same dimensions.
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2004 11:18 am
by marc61
My problem is that my bridge doesn't have any screws in the saddle:-(
I guess I'll just take the bridge and see what I can find
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2004 11:32 am
by paul_yan
Yes that's the best approach.
Does your '73 have the 3-screw, split tailpiece?
As far as I know, a pre-mid '73, split tailpiece bridge requires screws that are are a little shorter (.070"?) than the current ones due to their narrower front-to-back bridge dimension. I had to have the black screws' length cut to fit my Dec. '72 bridge.
Good luck finding the right screws.
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2004 1:02 pm
by marc61
Take a look at this shot. I know it's not clear but, you can tell what kind of bridge it is. Split yes, three screws? I don't see them.
http://www.msnusers.com/Rickenpictures/734001fg.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=28
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2004 1:31 pm
by rickcrazy
Just remove the saddle block.
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2004 2:17 pm
by paul_yan
And you'll see only 3 screws holding the tailpiece to the body:

Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2004 3:02 pm
by marc61
Thanks, I knew somthing was holding my bridge down

Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2004 10:49 am
by ghs_boomer
Heres a pic of the missing intonation screw on the "G" string saddle

Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2004 11:41 am
by milo
Hey Mike,
I've got problems with adjusting my new/used 4003S bridge and ordered a bunch of screws with socket head adjustment (like Paul posted) that will hopefully work in this situation. I had to order a couple hundred so once I find out if they work I'm going to post the results and I'll sell off the rest to help out other Forum members and to help recoup my costs of shipping and the minimum order fees. Watch for an update in the next week or so.
Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2004 4:29 pm
by ghs_boomer
I know this is not the best photo.
