Neck/trussrod issues on '56 Combo 400

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Mon Jan 31, 2005 5:19 pm

Excellent point John. So many times I've seen this happen when an unexperienced person tries to adjust the truss rod and causes more harm than good.

adam_swapp · Post by **adam_swapp** » Mon Jan 31, 2005 5:36 pm

Geez, guys, where was all this sage advice when I was asking about redoing a truss rod 6 weeks ago?

And Dale, I've got to ask: is that 30 degree angle sloped back towards the top of the rod or the bottom? In other words:

---\
----\ <- upper half
--------
-------- <- threaded half
or
----/
---/ <- upper half
--------
-------- <- threaded half
[/size]

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Mon Jan 31, 2005 6:23 pm

The top diagram, the one right above where it says
or. This angle is what causes the top part of the rod to bow with an up pressure.

adam_swapp · Post by **adam_swapp** » Mon Jan 31, 2005 6:33 pm

Thanks, that's what I thought. I figured you angled it so that the face of the rod was flush with the spacer when the rod was bent. However, the word "bite" in your initial post got me thinking that maybe you meant that literally, like a tooth digging into the back of the spacer. That's what I get for thinking.

bytemonster · Post by **bytemonster** » Mon Jan 31, 2005 6:36 pm

Thanks Adam, for asking the question I was going to! Makes total sense. I may do as John suggests and rethread the trussrod.

Thanks Dale for the hot tips on this stuff...priceless.

I'll keep you posted...or ask more questions!

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Mon Jan 31, 2005 6:40 pm

Hey this is over 30 years experience and I don't mind sharing it with those who appreciate it.

bytemonster · Post by **bytemonster** » Sat Feb 12, 2005 4:32 pm

Ok, I bought a heat blanket, tap/die set, those fretboard/neck clamp thingys from StewMac that kinda look like a capo. I also bought some very thin wire in case I need to put some set-pins through the fretboard.

I'm looking at the separation of the fretboard and it goes pretty deep and I'm thinking I won't be able to get glue all the way in there, much less sandpaper. That means taking the fretboard off. Does that sound reasonable to you, Dale?

Also, I cut the thread on the trussrod a little cleaner and deeper and put an angle on the unthreaded end like you suggested. I understand now how to bend the neck back a little to adjust it.

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Sat Feb 12, 2005 7:22 pm

Fren When I need to get glue in deep or tight places I use glue in a hypo-needle. If it's poly glue I use a heat gun to get it hot so it's thinner, that way it penetrates easier. Paint thinner is used to clean the excess glue off. You will be amazed how well the poly glues hold. You don't have to remove 100% of the old glue, just clean it up the best you can. Not seeing your guitar I don't want to give you any misleading info, but be very careful using a heat blanket. You can melt the finish very quickly.

bytemonster · Post by **bytemonster** » Sat Feb 12, 2005 8:34 pm

I'll try the hypo method. Also, I put the heat blanket on a dimmer so I can adjust the temp. I understand 250º is about the right temp to loosen the glue a bit. I think I'll end up using the the LMI white luthiers glue simply because I know it and have experience with it.