Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 10:01 am
Number 1 Gonna be very nice when you bring it back to playing condition. Will you be able to save the checkered binding? Here's a trick I use to restore white binding on Rick's: take some pure white binding cut up in small pieces 1/4 inch long, put then in a sealable glass jar with enough
acetone to cuver them. Now close the lid, shake this mixture every so often until the binding has disolved. What you want is a thick gooey product. You can leave the lid off for awhile and the acetone will evaporate making it as thick as you need or untill it turns back to a solid. Using acetone on a small brush, coat the bad areas on your existing binding, now using a popsicle stick or something similar, start building up the new binding/acetone mixture till it's above the old stuff. Give this a day to completely dry and you can scrape and sand it back to original size and it will not even be noticed. The acetone melts the bindings together nicely. As for the numbers in the T.R. cavity, I was the 1st one to use that system as for as I know. The neck is usually pretty easy to redo.
acetone to cuver them. Now close the lid, shake this mixture every so often until the binding has disolved. What you want is a thick gooey product. You can leave the lid off for awhile and the acetone will evaporate making it as thick as you need or untill it turns back to a solid. Using acetone on a small brush, coat the bad areas on your existing binding, now using a popsicle stick or something similar, start building up the new binding/acetone mixture till it's above the old stuff. Give this a day to completely dry and you can scrape and sand it back to original size and it will not even be noticed. The acetone melts the bindings together nicely. As for the numbers in the T.R. cavity, I was the 1st one to use that system as for as I know. The neck is usually pretty easy to redo.
