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Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 10:00 pm
by ken_swearingen
woop's my spellchecker did that MARK ARNQUIST sorry

Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 1:51 am
by docbass
Ted, which "thickness" do you recommend other than the thin stuff? If you go the thickest viscosity, is it self leveling? Wouldn't want to have to sand it!

Dean, we are talking about a 2003 Ric, not an older one.

Ken, I'm going to talk to my dealer first and see what he says. He has an excellent luthier on staff, so I might be able to work something out with them first. If not, I might take matters into my own hands (wouldn't be the first time!).

Thanks everyone!

PS: Checked the warranty card today- 1 yr on the finish so I'm 11 months beyond that. Surprise!

Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 5:20 am
by rickfan60
I was thinking that the low viscosity glue would get under the edges and secure them and possibly hide the fact that they are there. Then the high vis stuff would fill in the larger voids. I would apply the high vis glue in small amounts and layer up to the desired level. My V63 and my 4003S/8 have similar issues but they are quite minor at the moment.

Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 7:24 am
by docbass
Thanks Ted! I'll try that since I'm out of warranty anyway.

BTW, did you do the major neck repair and post it here on the Cheyenne recently? I was looking for that thread and couldn't find it (I have a similar project as well).

Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 7:40 am
by rickfan60
Peter archived a bunch of threads when the new server went online. They may still be available but I have not looked for them. I have all of the pictures here still. If you have any questions, I am happy to answer them. The bass is currently in the Jaymi collection. He has said nothing but good things about it so far.

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Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 8:49 am
by docbass
Yep, that's the one. Would you mind sharing the pics/info on the fretboard removal you posted before?

Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 9:16 am
by rickfan60
There are tools made for the purpose of loosening glue joints. I used a PVC heating blanket from my local contractor supply.

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It is a gradual process. Heat slowly and carefully. Remember that adjacent laminations could come apart during the heating so you may have some extra gluing to do afterwards. For example, if you remove the fingerboard from a 4001, you may also loosen the skunk stripe laminations. Use insulators on areas you don't want to effect. Oven mits, pot holders, or cotton towels can do the job.

Posted: Sun Feb 27, 2005 11:45 am
by docbass
Thanks Ted, that's the one I was thinking about. I have a Fender neck that needs some work, I'll give it a shot!