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Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:00 pm
by atani
I see, Scott. 660 has rosewood fingerboard, has it a slightly darker sound than maple fingerboard?. Thankyou.

Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:02 pm
by Scastles
Oh, what's 300 bucks more for a 660 (unless you don't have it, then it is)....now if it's a 381V, you're looking at, it will be more than two or three hundred by a tad (or two).
He--, Pere, they're all good!
Good luck, you'll find what you want. Glad we have been of some help.

Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:04 pm
by scottpro1969
Pere,
I may be wrong but, I think the only RIC guitar sporting other than a rosewood fingerboard is the 650. Again, I'd have to check the RIC website. So, that being said, you're going to get rosewood either way. The reason I think you'll pay more for the 660 is the vintage options that it has.
Well worth it though, IMHO.

Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:06 pm
by tony_carey
Pere, nearly all Rics have a rosewood board (650 excepted) & they are heavily laquered, so it wouldn't make much difference to the sound.

Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:15 pm
by scottpro1969
Stan, I think it does make a difference...330 or 360 vs 660. 2 completely different animals. Yes, the RIC signature sound is still going to be there either way...however, a solid body and semi-solid are quite different. Take a Tom Petty sound vs The Beatles. Classic RIC either way but there IS a difference. If Pere isn't a big fan of The Beatles, The Byrds, or REM...it's going to make a difference, especially when distortion is added for different types of music.

Of course this is only my opinion. Some may disagree, and probably will wholeheartedly.

Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:16 pm
by atani
It's done, Anthony. Well, friends, I have to go bed now, tomorrow will be a long (long long long ...) working day for me. You are all very kind, thankyou again.
Regards.

Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:19 pm
by Scastles
Scott, I agree with what you said. I was simply saying they all sound good, if you like Ric's. And there is a noticable difference in tone, depth, etc between certain models....maybe I was making it all sound too universal.

Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:29 pm
by scottpro1969
Not at all, Stan. I was only making the strong distinction because it seems Pere isn't at all familiar with Rickenbackers. AND, he's not a Beatles fan??? What's wrong with him???? Just kidding. Image

Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:34 pm
by Scastles
Scott, I think we probably gave the guy a headache and he said, 'enough of this, I'm goin' to bed'....but it is like 11:30 or so over there.
(you're right again, no Beatles, blasphemy) Just jokin' Pere, if you're reading.

Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:39 pm
by jps
Not to quibble, but the fingerboards are Bubinga.

Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:42 pm
by scottpro1969
Not according to their website. Rosewood all the way.

Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:48 pm
by Scastles
Bubinga is known as African Rosewood.

Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:53 pm
by scottpro1969
Gotcha.

Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 3:08 pm
by ozover50
For what it's worth, Peri, I started with a 330/6 which I consider the 'classic' Rickenbacker due to its shape and tonal qualities. The sound is fabulous clean, but you can come up with some remarkable stuff if you add a few bits and pieces (like chorus, compression, wah, heavy distortion, etc. etc.). It all works!!

Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 6:14 pm
by jingle_jangle
Pere,

I agree that the 300 series--from the 330 up to the 381, is the classic Rick size and shape, if your Rick-familiarity came from 60s bands. Then a 330 or 360 would be your choice. Both have narrow fingerboards, especially if you're used to wide, flat fingerboards.

Then there's the pickup discussion which constantly revives itself around here. 330 and 360 have hi-gains, 381 has toasters. These are all semi-hollow body guitars.

If you want a wider neck, the only choice is the 660. It has toaster pickups and a rather small and thin "cresting wave" solid body that is not trad Rick to some folks, even though it traces its roots back pretty far, too.