Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

8mileshigher wrote: I would guess that Bass needs some serious maple block inserts to prevent neck bowing and weakening...

Actually, while that routing is a mess, the factory route weakened it the most. The rest of it's just ugly.

aceonbass wrote:

8mileshigher wrote: I would guess that Bass needs some serious maple block inserts to prevent neck bowing and weakening...

Actually, while that routing is a mess, the factory route weakened it the most. The rest of it's just ugly.

Very true Dane. Despite all, the neck is straight and unaffected.

[quote="jingle_jangle"]A finished '68 4001 going to Bryce in Canada today...

amazing, Paul - looking forward to receiving it.

I'm following it up with a restored '66 1999 for Bryce, which also required extensive work. Pics soon.

Still more to ship this week: One for Graham (a re-neck of the 4005/8 I built for him a couple of years ago), the 650/12 in MID, and the very special 700C/12 for Jesus Padilla in Spain. Photos on these also.

jingle_jangle wrote: and the very special 700C/12 for Jesus Padilla in Spain. Photos on these also.

Special color, special checkerboard freatboard, special LR Baggs Anthem, etc, I can't wait to see it. Great work Paul.

Update on the 700C/12...here are some shots of it, post-clearcoat and -buff. Burgundy and MK White finish is glassy and near-perfect, so time to assemble and set up.

Bridge gluing: I trace the bridge outline onto the spruce top and tape it off rather than scraping post-finishing as most builders do. I find that this gives superior adhesion, which is especially important in the case of a 12-string with its 300-pounds-plus of string tension. Following paint, clearcoat, and buffing, I cut away the tape to expose bare wood, rough up the back of the bridge slightly, and position the bridge, marking its location with tape lines.





The bridge is glued and clamped into place to cure, using a specially-modded Ibex clamp and an adjustable bridge caul to spread the force equally over the entire bridge footprint.



After a 24-hour cure cycle, the clamp is removed and the excess glue removed.

Next, the tuners are fitted, bridge is drilled and reamed to fit each individual bridge pin, the handmade bone saddle is fitted (with the piezo element sandwiched underneath it), and the guitar is strung up and tuned to pitch in increments.





This headstock had a wonderful profile which necessitated recessing both "E" tuners in order to get a flush fit:



Now, it spends 3 or 4 days on the Tone-Rite to open up the sound and "break it in", while I work on other customers' projects!



I start with the TR over the sound hole, and move it closer to the bridge every 12 hours or so. Voodoo!!!

A clue to the state-of-the-art LRBaggs "Anthem" dual-element pickup system--the tailpin jack, which switches the preamp on whenever a phone plug is inserted.



Yes, I use Martin FX strings!

Beautiful work, great pictures!

Awewome!!!
What kind of rosewood bridge you use? Handmade or aftermarker? And the Martin strings Phosphor bronze or 80/20 bronze?

cjj wrote:Beautiful work, great pictures!

You said it !!

Checkerboard neck!! Yee-Haw!! Love it.

Paul - what's the story on the Starfire bass?

Wow, some eyes, JB!

Thanks!

You're welcome.

I think.

Hmm, looks like Keith Richards had no sleep last night...