Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I will probably finish most of this during the weekend, after all it's been 1 month exactly and this was a spare time project.

Dale,

At the risk of repeating my comments on another thread. It is beyond words the craftsmanship that you display. You dont seem have any CNC equipment so it is probably safe to assume that everything you do is a result of a combination of knowledge and skill. In other words a true craftsman.

Again this thread makes for far better reading and learning than anything I have read on the subject in recent years. This makes me appreciate fine instruments even more.

Keep up the good work.

I too think it's great to see this kind of input into this forum. Like Brian, at the risk of repeating myself, this kind of topic is what has made this forum the place it is.

Great work Dale.

And yes, what is that MOP inlay material. IMO, it looks better than anything I've seen since early 73....

I have to say I love those fret markers too. I think those look awesome, and all Ricks should have those, not just some of the guitars. I'd pay an extra $50 on a new one to have those...

All my equipment is basic. Table saw, joiner, planer, stroke sander, edge sander, band saw, drill press, pin router, and a multitude of hand tools to numerous to mention. A small spray booth big enough for 3 guitars at a time. What I have is a wood shop that is equivilent to Electro Strings but on a smaller scale. I have no CNC machinery, everything is done by hand as was done in the early 70's. It is very comfortable and allows me to do things at my own pace. Being referred to as a Craftsman is a very high compliment, thank you very much. This makes me feel proud and I have to give credit to Rickenbacker and John Hall for giving me the opportunity more than 30 years ago to be an apprentice and learn for my elders and master guitar builders. Rickenbacker/Electro String has such a History and Legacy, I'm happy to be a part of it. ..... Now you ask what those inlays are made of: they are real pearl shells. I use a morter and pestle
made of cast iron to crush the shell marterial to the desired size. They are so very close to the old ones it's hard to tell the difference. The original ones: 60's/70's
came in 12 inch sheets and were cut to size, then fitted to each fret marker. IMO, these were and still are the most eye pleasing and beautiful inlays to ever adorn a guitar neck.
I'm leaning toward putting a Bigby and a roller bridge on this instrument. What do you think? I've never owned a guitar with a Bigsby so maybe I should do it. Tune in tomorrow for more details.

A Bigsby sounds great to me, Dale. More brownie points..... sets it apart from your run-of-the-mill instruments and retains the 'classic' image that you are obviously keen to incorporate. I'd happily donate it to the project if that's a possibility.

Just don't forget..... if it needs a home....... Tee hee!!

Dale
I reckon Bigsby's are cool. I reckon you will hear lots of differing opinions on that though.
I keep checking this post at least two times a day. This is great!
Cheers
John

Dale, You are the epitomy of a good craftsman and teacher! It's sure is nice of Howard to offer up a bigsby. Kudos Howard.

Dale, maybe your next project should be one of donated pieces and input from the forum. I bet it would be another historical piece! Here's an idea...I bet you could offer it for auction to us envious forumites and then use the money to host a wild *** guitar party/confluence at your shop! What do ya' think (ha-ha)?

I'm serious, Dale. If you can email me some details - what model Bigsby you want, where I can buy one over the internet, a shipping address for you, etc, etc. I'd be delighted to be able to contribute in some way.

This will show how the bridge and pick guards are made. The bridge is 1/2 inch aluminum channel that gets cut on the band saw with a wood cutting blade, it's soft so it doesn't hurt the teeth. Brass can also be cut with a wood blade.... The bridge is marked and drilled for saddle adjustment screws and mounting posts. Using 1/8 inch thick bar stock, it is layed out, marked, drilled, and tapped for 10/24 threads. Using the band saw, these are cut to rough size then taken to the disc sander they are ground to fit the bridge. Assembled bridge will be taken apart and buffed later but 1st while it's still together the saddles are ground down to match the 12 inch radius of the finger board. I am using a radius guage I've made from a stainless steel plate to check the tops of the saddles to make sure they match the 12 inch radius. The pick guards are made from .125 acyrlic. Marked on one side then cut on the band saw. All the holes are drilled 1st with brad tip drills so as not to crack the plastic. I use the disc sander to bring these to the desired size and shape. These were marked off a mid-60's set of 360 pick guards. Once they are sanded and all the saw marks are removed they can be placed on a board with a set screw to hold them in place while the gold lacquer is sprayed on the back side. Remove the backing paper before you spray. After the gold dries then clear lacquer is sprayed to seal the gold. 2 coats does the job.
http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0428.jpg
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Holy Cow, Dale, you gonna machine your own tuners and wind your own strings too? My hat's way off to you.

It is amazing how much work and detail goes in to something that we take for granted...like a guitar bridge! Great walk thru Dale!

OK, before you look at these next 4 pictures, ask yourself what would you want for Christmas.
http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0459.jpg
http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0460.jpg
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http://photobucket.com/albums/b53/DaleFortune/000_0464.jpg
Howard I really want to thank you for offering up that Bigsby, a friend of mine owns a guitar shop in Portland, so I picked up a B-5 just to see what it would look like. You are right about the retro look and it does and a vibe to the shape. Now all the parts are just sittng on this beauty for the eye to see and speculate. If I were to name or give it a model number what are your thoughts, and feed back? It's hard to tell that the guitar isn't even buffed out or waxed yet. It will be a few more days before the finish has totaly cured,I usually wait a week before the polishing. So now I can finish some other guitars I've been restoring.

Call it the Fortune 500

I am not really a fan of trem units on a Ric but I do have a soft spot for the accent vibrato. I think that if you were making this for me (unfortunately you are not) and we had decided to put a trem unit on it. that I would prefer the accent vibrato.

They don't add weight to a guitar and for as much I might use a tremelo they do the job just fine.

Many professional musicians like an instrument that is a little on the lighter side as long as it's mass does not sacrifice tone and sustain.

Balance, good looks and playability are also important factors. I like the look of a Bigsby but I think that they are clunky and awkward units. The other issue with them is that the arm tends to loosen up and swing like a pendulum.

Any way ultimately its your choice. Personally I would just put a trapezoid tailpiece on it and call it a day.