Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

walker wrote:I'd be happy to take a look at the bass, Chris. Hit me via PM with the details.

And Kudos to you for weeding through the nay-sayer commentary and cutting to the chase. Stick around - this RM 1999 is almost "a wrap."

Thats why I dont "post" a lot... I like reading the info and stories. by the time you get past the silly stuff I'm too tired to reply. if I had the ability to type long intelligent retorts I would but mostly "blow it out yer ***" seems to work better than the long thought out responses....lol

I will reach out.

you're in North Jersey right?

OK - so I've got Med-Lite DR roundwounds on the bass after gluing the fretboard back on. There was a little bit of a twist, but I steamed that out, and now it's straight as an arrow and plays great with relatively low action. Nice sustain and good tension. The frets are a train-wreck, though - dead spots all over the place. Remnants of Chip's work I would have to assess.

Looks done to me. Slap some stickers on there and you're good to go.

Grey wrote:Looks done to me. Slap some stickers on there and you're good to go.

Well some pickups and knobs would be nice. And a place to plug in the cable.

I'm lovin' it. Can't wait for the happy ending....

walker wrote:OK - so I've got Med-Lite DR roundwounds on the bass after gluing the fretboard back on. There was a little bit of a twist, but I steamed that out, and now it's straight as an arrow and plays great with relatively low action. Nice sustain and good tension. The frets are a train-wreck, though - dead spots all over the place. Remnants of Chip's work I would have to assess.

I did not see the truss rods in the other pictures. Did you manage to get the action without a truss rod?

aceonbass wrote:

henry5 wrote:This is an issue of mine with the earlier basses as I like to have very low action and I struggle to get the intonation (one of the reasons I sold the 21 fretter). My Fireglo '72 has had the tailpiece routed for a slightly later bridge unit at some point to get round it. I may get the whole tailpiece moved back slightly at some point to see if it makes a difference, although TBH there's not much leeway with the cavities being as they are. Has anyone come up with a really good solution for this?

If you've moved the tailpiece as far back as you can without uncovering the mute route, and your intonation is still off, you can re-shape the saddles to move the witness point further rearward, and also allow for more rearward travel. You can also remove up to about 1/16" of material from the bottom of the bridge to further lower action. These solutions have kept a few customers from having the top of the bass routed to lower the whole tailpiece(WHY?), or selling an otherwise nice bass.

My Azure has no issues with lowering the bridge, however if I do lower it any more (although the action is comfortably low) I run out of intonation adjustment. The saddles I had made are much more accurately cut than the originals and have the saddle post further forward so the saddle can be moved further backwards, but the trade off is the bridge then tilts really easily. I might try some washers, and when I get to see my tech I might get him to move the bridge back as far as it will go.

Anyway, sorry to hi-jack the thread. Over to you Mark!

Colonel Sanders wrote:I did not see the truss rods in the other pictures. Did you manage to get the action without a truss rod?

Curious...???

opticnerve wrote:

Colonel Sanders wrote:I did not see the truss rods in the other pictures. Did you manage to get the action without a truss rod?

Curious...???

Transparent aluminum, presumably.

More likely unobtanium...

cjj wrote:More likely unobtanium...

opticnerve wrote:

Colonel Sanders wrote:I did not see the truss rods in the other pictures. Did you manage to get the action without a truss rod?

Curious...???

Pretty much!

jps wrote:Transparent aluminum, presumably.

That would make Mark rich beyond the dreams of Avarice