!!!!! '72 MG !!!!!!
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
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ken_swearingen
- Advanced Member
- Posts: 2298
- Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2004 6:00 pm
As for adjusting the rods be careful thats the old rod system they adjust differently than the new ones.DO NOT just tighten them you will end up with a popped board again.you loosen them set the neck where you want it and then tighten them.As for the treble or bridge pickup thats an early 70s high gain,toaster sounds to be original,sounds and definatly looks like a very nice bass.enjoy
Bob DON'T adjust the polepieces on that bridge high gain, I found out the hard way on my 72 and it had to take a trip to Lisbon. The screws are only surrounded by tape or something like that and can short out the windings very easily.
To get the nuts up to where you can turn them, put a clamp right over the first fret so you don't re-pop the nut although you might want to check to see if it really has been repaired by observing that the crack doesn't widen by applying a little pressure on the nuts before you clamp it, then pry them up with something carefully, screwdriver, socket, etc. just enough to get a slim nutdriver over them (at least that's the way I have done it) you'll need to take the rods out as once they bend they will keep re-bending, I had someone cut the ends off and weld hard steel just for the threaded portion on one of my 4001's, works like a charm, no more tipping or bending.
IMO the problem with the 4001's is that where the end of the folded over truss rod butts up against the back of the aluminum block the threaded ends are too soft, so you have the nuts exerting force on the front of the block and the other end of the folded truss rod exerting force on the backside of the block, the threaded portion eventually bends down unless you use very light gauge strings and when they bend the block starts tipping and the ends which are on top go upwards and now start to exert some of their pressure upward and guess where that is, right under the nut, this is what pops the fingerboard.
To get the nuts up to where you can turn them, put a clamp right over the first fret so you don't re-pop the nut although you might want to check to see if it really has been repaired by observing that the crack doesn't widen by applying a little pressure on the nuts before you clamp it, then pry them up with something carefully, screwdriver, socket, etc. just enough to get a slim nutdriver over them (at least that's the way I have done it) you'll need to take the rods out as once they bend they will keep re-bending, I had someone cut the ends off and weld hard steel just for the threaded portion on one of my 4001's, works like a charm, no more tipping or bending.
IMO the problem with the 4001's is that where the end of the folded over truss rod butts up against the back of the aluminum block the threaded ends are too soft, so you have the nuts exerting force on the front of the block and the other end of the folded truss rod exerting force on the backside of the block, the threaded portion eventually bends down unless you use very light gauge strings and when they bend the block starts tipping and the ends which are on top go upwards and now start to exert some of their pressure upward and guess where that is, right under the nut, this is what pops the fingerboard.
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4005player
- Junior Member
- Posts: 134
- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 2:55 pm