Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

ricnbacker wrote:Still didnt get a chance to take a close up picture of the G string being close to the edge.

That may not be suitable for this forum!

ricnbacker wrote:I also noticed the A & Dstring P/U poles are higher than the E&G. These are not adjustable so I guess I will get used to the E & G being just a little lower in volume.The only solution I see to the Clack problem, as it is coming through the amp at times, is to tighten the truss rods a little and give the neck a little bow
What think ye?

The A and D poles are higher to compensate for the curve of the fingerboard. If your bass is a '92 or newer, you actually can adjust the poles, but you must be very careful. You'll need to have the pickup you're adjusting in your hand to hold it steady. Using a pair of vice grips, grab the A or D pole and rotate clockwise while pushing in on it. You'll need to be very careful not to scratch the bobbin. The action on those two strings can also be adjusted by slotting the nut or bridge saddles a little deeper also, but this will require the proper tools. Optimum intonation is achieved with the neck as flat as you can adjust it. There's no reason to compromise when setting up a Rickenbacker bass.

I was able to adjust my style after I got my 4001, to play more sensitively and let the amp compensate for volume. I found that always with cheaper basses I used to muscle them, trying to get some @#$% TONE out of them. But then came the Walnut and was so fine and responsive I just touch had to touch it and it would play itself, practically, and doesn't need or want to be muscled. This suits me fine, as I get older and less energetic ... why work harder than I have to?

jps wrote:

ricnbacker wrote:Still didnt get a chance to take a close up picture of the G string being close to the edge.

That may not be suitable for this forum!

I knew it as I typed it...lol

kiramdear wrote:I was able to adjust my style after I got my 4001, to play more sensitively and let the amp compensate for volume. I found that always with cheaper basses I used to muscle them, trying to get some @#$% TONE out of them. But then came the Walnut and was so fine and responsive I just touch had to touch it and it would play itself, practically, and doesn't need or want to be muscled. This suits me fine, as I get older and less energetic ... why work harder than I have to?

Its not like I am playing all that hard. Some things I am playing just have an attack that dictates hitting the strings a certain way to get the right sound. Trust me, a hard attack is not how I play. I do not beat on it no where near that. I almost baby it....

Christopher, a couple of suggestions:

1-Is the neck absolutely or close to dead straight? If not, adjust the truss rods to get a dead straight neck (not to the extent of back bow) and raise the bridge a little. See if the clack goes away.

2-Change your right hand fingers' plucking angle to a more lateral sweep (i.e. sweeping parallel, instead of perpendicular, to the bass' body surface ) and see if the clack goes away.

Good luck!

I concur with what Paul said above. A while ago I changed my right hand position a little to achieve a straighter wrist and to do the floating thumb technique to control the ringing of strings. This was when I first started to really notice the clacking sound and after analysing what I was doing it became apparent that I although I wasn't playing any harder I was applying more downward force than before (i.e. in the direction of the body) as a consequence of my palm being closer to the strings than before. Now I'm aware of it I can concentrate on refining my technique and minimizing any unwanted noises.

Paul, Anthony,

The Neck is flat with no back bow.

When I play with a Pick the sound is not present so I know you guys are on to something but wouldnt I get that sound on my other bass as well if I was hitting the strings the same way?

The reason this is all of a sudden annoying is I have been playing my *** off lately and have been working with an instructor. so the more I play the more I hear.....

Thanks guys

I actually had a shot of the neck and the G string side already

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x292 ... nts010.jpg

aceonbass wrote:I see what you mean. Well, you can pop off the nut, file some material off the E side and put it back on centered, or replace it. I have an extra black RIC 4003 nut if you're interested.

Pardon the ignorance.....why would I file off the E side. and if I did that wouldnt the problem now be transfered to the other side?

If that Nut is just collecting dust...I would absolutely be interested in it. It would be nice it see if they cut it wrong or installed it wrong....

Thanks Dane

ok heres an update and tell me what you think...

The neck is not flat but damer near close and it feels fine to me. String height is good and it plays oh so sweet which I know you all know.

The obnoxious clank and a horrible metalic sound I get when I dont fully fret a string properly has been identified.

The settings on my amp and or the tone controls on the Bass itself.

I use an Ampeg B100R the bass mid mid and treble setting all on 12 O'clock bass and treble boost engaged. Volume and tone fully open for both P/U's.

I backed off the Tones and it dramatically changed the sound. Backed off the 2 mids and No more clack....

Too much Treble going thrugh the amp with that bridge P/U???

The down side is the crisp "treble punch" sound is gone when finger playing. Not a dull thud like a P bass but definately a bit muffled.


What think you?

I played out with my Ric the other night and it is just Fine....better than fine actually. Nothing wrong with it

I'm not going to pretend I'm an expert but if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Glad you got the right sounds out of if (or got rid of the wrong sounds coming from it, however you prefer).