Page 3 of 3

Re: 360/12 neck reset.

Posted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 11:38 pm
by CurtW
Here's a link to a large bridge image after the reset.
http://midstatepaint.com/fullbridge.jpg

And before.
http://midstatepaint.com/fullbridge2.jpg

Re: 360/12 neck reset.

Posted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 11:48 pm
by kiramdear
Curt, may I ask what kind of finish did you put on it? Very nice work, by the way! :)

Re: 360/12 neck reset.

Posted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 9:19 am
by CurtW
I used NC lacquer because of all the blending and thanks.

Re: 360/12 neck reset.

Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 10:29 am
by jingle_jangle
Curt, do you use conversion varnish (CV)-type finishes on those good-looking total refins you do, or do you prefer NC (nitrocellulose)?

Incidentally, there is no reason to avoid using CV where blends are concerned. CV "burns-in" undetectably once you get the hang of it, and will retain its gloss far longer than NC.

The drawback to CV vs. NC is the labor issue. CV must be wet-sanded and buffed, which roughly doubles your turnaround time, not to mention bumping the cost to the customer.

If you already are aware of this, please pardon my re-stating, as it's also for the benefit of Forum members.

And, as I said before, welcome!!!

Re: 360/12 neck reset.

Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:58 pm
by CurtW
Paul, thanks for the warm welcome!

Some of those refins are ChromaPremier base coat with nitro or 72500S clear. I've never used CV and I think I need to check it out. I know that the UV lacks personallity and make the bubinga and other natural wood look plastic, let's hope that's not the finish of the future! I've used Cromax Pro waterborne color and that looks great, nice finish with little film build.

Re: 360/12 neck reset.

Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 3:32 pm
by jingle_jangle
Very cool, Curt.

That whole "plasticky" thing (which I think is what you mean by deep, deep shine and super high gloss), is what Rickenbackers have been known for since Hector was a pup. I know it's not such a beeg deal to Fender and Gretsch folks, especially when they find out what it costs in time and materials to achieve, but new Ricks are known for this, and it's only after lots of use that a Rick will begin to lose that new-car shine...and it's a fact that Japanese-made Gretsches use urethane finishes and Korean-made ones use polyester; both are catalyzing-type finishes. Only the Corona Custom Shop uses nitrocellulose--the finishes on Gretsches costing twice as much (Corona), only last half as long as the Japanese ones. Go figure...

I still use nitro on request, but the preferred finish for Ricks is CV. I'm investigating the UV thing, because that's the way the Rickenbacker factory is moving.

I use waterborne colors in my "day" job, but my guitars still get the old-fashioned (?) urethane color coats over a vinyl sealer. My varnish is catalyzing urethane; unbeatable for gloss and long life, but tricky to spray.

Please IM me and let's get acquainted. I'm sure we can help each other out.