Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

tomersg wrote:is the lift is fixable other then the two screws drill solution?
can the tailpiece can bent back by any tools or by heating?
did anyone here tried something like this?

In all the cases I've seen and dealt with, on the Zinc TP's, the two screws is the best solution.
Once the Zinc bends, it has surpassed "breaking strain".
The bend occurs at the thinnest/weakest point on the TP which is just forward of the holes for the strings.

I think that with just about 40 years of these things in service, in spite of the well thought out attempts to
strengthen the design, the TPs still bend.
No matter what one can argue about Zinc's supposed strength over Aluminum, the failure rate of Zinc has far surpassed that of the Aluminum....
The reason that Rickenbacker likely quit using the two screws that matter is that too many people complained about the "look".

I don't know why this skillet of hash keeps getting refried. The answer for the Zinc ones was figured out years ago.
Put the screws in just aft of the string holes and put any transatlantic cable of a string on you want.

For those whom want the vintage "look"; learn to obey the instructions emblazoned on the original string box-
"DO NOT USE ANY OTHER STRINGS ON RICKENBACKER INSTRUMENTS". Period.

Thems my two Rupees.....

I'm sorry. The Hipshot website said "Machined ou of solid aluminum or brass...". So sorry, I thought milled and machined meant the same thing. Never mind, carry on.

Whats a transatlantic cable of a string?
Is it for a three thousand mile long scale neck?

pag wrote:Whats a transatlantic cable of a string?
Is it for a three thousand mile long scale neck?

LOL!
Perhaps instead of a metaphore I should use a practical example-
LaBella 760M Jamerson Strings....
Google that one LOL!

aceonbass wrote:The tailpiece can be bent back, but since it's now just a little bit weaker, it will eventually bend again.

Adding the washers or a wood insert in the rout area to fill the void between the bottom of the tailpiece and the body slows or eliminates the possibility of it re-lifting.

tomersg wrote:is the lift is fixable other then the two screws drill solution?
can the tailpiece can bent back by any tools or by heating?
did anyone here tried something like this?

Yes, it can be repaired, but adding those two extra screws is highly recommended.
There is an entire thread on this topic, with at least two success stories:

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=161788

John, it will in some cases depending on the cause, but as Dane said, once bent it's past it's best, and will eventually creep. Although all I have straightened many with a tool I made, none are showing bad signs, so I would put most cases down to, more of a poor action, heavy strings and of course much use.

Some years ago now I had a 1969 Porsche 917 in, this machine is like nothing else and took many years for motorsport manufacturers to catch up, when restoring the pedal box, you look at what is really down there and think, Le Mans, 230 Mph at the end of the Mulsanne Straight into a 30 Mph corner, you are pressing on a Magnesium brake pedal , drop forged of course, but even so, not me thankyou

Seans wrote:Some years ago now I had a 1969 Porsche 917...

jps wrote:

Seans wrote:Some years ago now I had a 1969 Porsche 917...

Um... yeah...

cjj wrote:

jps wrote:

Seans wrote:Some years ago now I had a 1969 Porsche 917...

Um... yeah...

Funny, I was going to use the analogy of using the wrong fuel in a sports car for using the wrong strings on a Rick....

chefothefuture wrote:

jps wrote:

Seans wrote:Some years ago now I had a 1969 Porsche 917...

Um... yeah...

Funny, I was going to use the analogy of using the wrong fuel in a sports car for using the wrong strings on a Rick....

, ''in'' as in, for restoration.

I think it had the edge on sound over my 72 4001