Luthier says: "RIC bass necks can't be flat"

[ilan]

Maybe RIC should build them with a slightly steeper neck angle and a redesigned tailpiece/bridge unit with a higher bridge that can be lowered when needed.

The standard Fender bridges have the saddles 3-4mm from the base plate (and still you can shim the neck if the saddles are too low or if you want a different break angle).

[jps]

Regarding bolt neck basses, my fretted Elfin 5 has the most amazing sustain.

[heinpete]

Regarding bolt neck basses, my fretted Elfin 5 has the most amazing sustain.

...no wonder, the neck-body joint is veeeerrry big!

[cassius987]

Regarding bolt neck basses, my fretted Elfin 5 has the most amazing sustain.

I consistently find more sustain on bolt-ons than neck-throughs, so I believe it. Not that we really needed more except in the case of bad dead spots. I think where neck through matters to sound is more in the instrument's overall timbre, not the sustain. In the case of Rics, everything sounds more "resonant". I don't know how else to describe it. Anyway, I've gone way OT.

[ilan]

I'm sure that a bolt-on 4000 series Ric will sound just fine. Or just like a 4080. The main advantage of the neck-through construction, I think, is the total and effortless access to the higher frets. But you can't make a bolt-on 4003 with a stable neck - with the 4080 they had to glue the neck inside the pocket, and when even that wasn't enough, altered the body shape around the neck/body joint to have more "meat" for the pocket.

[jps]

The main advantage of the neck-through construction, I think, is the total and effortless access to the higher frets.

You are quite correct there; the curve of the heel on my 4004Ls are at the 18th fret whereas the curve on my 2030GF is at the 14th fret. Ultimately, this seem to have little effect as to real world access, only at the 19th and 20th frets do I really feel my hand hitting the heel/body joint, of course, others with differing playing style may find this to not be the case.

[cassius987]

The main advantage of the neck-through construction, I think, is the total and effortless access to the higher frets. But you can't make a bolt-on 4003 with a stable neck - with the 4080 they had to glue the neck inside the pocket, and when even that wasn't enough, altered the body shape around the neck/body joint to have more "meat" for the pocket.

Right. Same lessons learned from playing on many Fenders and the like. This is definitely the most tangible benefit to neck-through. I think there are also some really noticeable tonal changes with neck-through that are neither good or bad (but definitely different), however my evidence for that is basically just my anecdotal experience.

For all the problems it solves with relatively few costs, if I built a custom bass for myself I would probably use bolt-on construction. Yet I really favor my neck-through Rics to anything else I've tried so who knows.

[coolingitdown]

Also, I don't know if Joey touches on this, but cutting down the nut slots can have a tremendous effect on the feel of the bass.

I never did. I think about the people who might be beginners to working on guitars, getting a bit over zealous when it comes to things like filing the nut slots. There are many things I'd like to still get to add to the site, but I either don't have the time or thin maybe it's best not to, as in nut slot filing.

I have saved a ton of money and aggravation since learning to do my own tech work. I view problems with my instruments as learning opportunities now.

After playing Jonathan's Rickenbacker 4003 and 4001C64 on several occasions, all I can say to him about his setups is, you have learned VERY well, Grasshopper!

It's probably wise to not write about things like nut slot filing. Like you said, it's only a matter of time before an overzealous beginner shoots you an email complaining about how he/she followed your advice and ruined the nut by overfiling.

And thanks for the praise of my setup work! It's a combination of Dan Erlewine's book, lots of tinkering, and your website when it comes to Rick setups, although I have found that those principles transfer pretty well to other brands too.

[ram]

I do think that it is a real good idea for an owner learn how to tune in their bass themselves. I bought a metal straight edge years ago, cut it to fretboard length and can get the necks very close to flat. I think that the user is the best judge as to how the instrument is set up and doing it yourself brings you in tune better with how the unit works!

Just take your time and understand what is described and if not clear in you mind then ask questions. This Forum is so frikin helpful it is almost unbelievable.

I like my setup flat and low action... I play with a pick. If others like higher action then a little relief may be in order... a personal choice and one which can be best set by the individual playing it.

[pag]

The main thing is how the bass feels.
If it sounds and feels good to play and the strings buzz a bit so what?
I dont think I have ever played a bass with a "flat" neck.
You need some relief in the neck no matter what.
John Entwistle said he always lowered the action as much as possible until the strings rattled
against the frets.
Sounds good to me.
Have a listen to Chris Squires bass on the opening bars of Close To The Edge on Jammit.
Its pure filth but by god it sounds good.

A good fret dress works wonders in my book.
Let it clank!