Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:24 am
Nice work Ted. Its always fun to see a Ted project in progress.
Impressive work as always Ted!!
Paul, that's gonna be an awesome looking bass!
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PB-1 project
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Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:34 am
Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 8:24 am
Thanks guys!
Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 10:43 am
Here is another update.
Paul was concerned that the bad finish had damaged the wood. No worries here..
or here....
Paul was concerned that the bad finish had damaged the wood. No worries here..
or here....
Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 10:45 am
The inlays cleaned up very nicely. They even sparkle again!
The head is just about done.
The head is just about done.
Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 11:34 am
Nice work!
Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 11:45 am
Strong magic!
Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 1:25 pm
Now this kind of thing really makes me wish that I owned that bass, beautiful work...and a great idea ...congrats to Paul and Ted.
Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 6:29 pm
The walnut wings look AMAZING with the skunk stripe!
Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 4:10 am
Cool! Great to hear that the inlays are still good.
Thanks for posting photos.
Thanks for posting photos.
Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 6:10 am
Nice!
How did you clean up the inlays, just by sanding?
How did you clean up the inlays, just by sanding?
Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 10:24 am
Very gentle sanding, as they are quite thin.
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 6:43 pm
This update - neck binding. I had to widen the original binding route very slightly. It was sanded down to about .020" so I opened it up to about .040. Not the most fun thing I have ever done. Anyway, here it is from the front.
Here is a side shot. The marker dots are not in yet.
A little closer. I still have to do a little more shaping and will have to clean the binding dust out of the bubinga. The side dots will be next.
Here is a side shot. The marker dots are not in yet.
A little closer. I still have to do a little more shaping and will have to clean the binding dust out of the bubinga. The side dots will be next.
Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 5:15 am
Oooh. Spiffy! You're doing great, Ted!
Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 11:11 am
There are some low areas on and around the inlays so the binding has to be shaped to follow the contours. It should not be terribly noticeable in the end.
The guide-board idea worked nicely. I used hot glue to hold a tapered board flat to the fingerboard so the router would have a level surface to reference while cutting the binding route. I went very slowly and held my breath each time a approached an inlay. They were taped down as a precaution but I was still half expecting them to pop out of the fingerboard or shatter. They cut cleanly without the slightest complaint. Having a sharp router bit helps! After 35 years that material is still quite stable. There was a little splintering along the way. Dry bubinga is pretty brittle. Fortunately, the splinters were very easy to repair. I can't even tell where they were now.
The guide-board idea worked nicely. I used hot glue to hold a tapered board flat to the fingerboard so the router would have a level surface to reference while cutting the binding route. I went very slowly and held my breath each time a approached an inlay. They were taped down as a precaution but I was still half expecting them to pop out of the fingerboard or shatter. They cut cleanly without the slightest complaint. Having a sharp router bit helps! After 35 years that material is still quite stable. There was a little splintering along the way. Dry bubinga is pretty brittle. Fortunately, the splinters were very easy to repair. I can't even tell where they were now.