Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2002 - 11:29 pm:

I have a mid-1970s 4001FL BG (right-handed guitar) that has an interesting 'situation' with its neck binding. Apparently, the guitar was used by a left-handed player at one time; to accommodate this, a 'luthier' (you'll see why I use the term loosely) switched the top and bottom neck bindings. However, the original top binding (having the fret markers in it), when moved to the bottom of the neck, was installed with the fret markers going the wrong direction, i.e. narrow spacing near the nut, wider spacing near the body. I'm not sure a 'real' luthier would make that mistake.

So my dilemma is that this fretless bass currently has no usable fret markers on either side of the neck, so it's not very playable either left- or right-handed. How difficult is it to remove the neck bindings and switch them back to their correct positions? Is this something I can do myself (I'm no luthier, but I am a 'McGyver' type of tinkerer, handy with tools and machines). One thing to note: the previous switch is noticeable with regard to the finish on the neck near the binding, so unless I do something really clutzy, I don't think I can make things worse than it already is in that regard.

Any input from the experts will be greatly appreciated.

paul wilczynski (Jingle_jangle)
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Username: Jingle_jangle

Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2004
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Posted on Wednesday, December 29, 2004 - 04:41 pm: Edit Post Print Post
Dear Luis and other members:

I've been finishing product prototypes, cars, and guitars, for almost four decades now. (Guitar finishing technology is akin more to car painting these days than to furniture finishing, as it used to be!) I teach these crafts on a university level to automotive and product design students.

The RED rubbing compound you are using (Du Pont #7 or Turtle Wax brand in a flat green and white can?) is way too abrasive for glossing up a guitar, especially the finish on a Rick. It can work in the hands of an experienced pro, but it's dicey because it'll slash right through all the paint coats on edges and possibly eat through the clearcoat into the undercoats or even bare wood, given half a chance. Du Pont does make a white compound called (right on the can) Polishing Compound. I believe it's #22. At any rate, it's about as agressive as you want for a guitar.

I agree with Peter on Meguiar's products--they are good for what you're trying to do. I have an even "hotter" tip, though, and it's one I've used repeatedly over the last decade or so with really fine results.

This is a three-step process, consisting of (1) rubbing out the dull paint finish, (2) glazing to remove the swirl marks and haze which rubbing out leaves, and (3) waxing with a water-based, non-abrasive quality wax to fill any other tiny "haze" marks (actually microscopic scratches) and to seal and protect the surface.

You need three specific products, although there are alternates which I will mention later: You will also need several cloth diapers (preferably clean) or soft COTTON T-shirts with NO silkscreening on them! These are torn into pieces and used to apply, rub in, and wipe off the various grades of abrasives and the wax itself. You'll start out with the coarsest abrasive and work towards the fine glaze, ending up with wax. DO NOT under any circumstances use any poly/cotton or manmade synthetic fabric, no matter how soft it seems to feel.

3M "Perfect-It II" Rubbing Compound (their product #05974) is used on a slightly-dampened COTTON cloth, as the first step. Not too much of this compound, not too little. Rub fairly hard on a small flat area and you'll see the gloss come up as the product breaks down. WATCH THE EDGES; around the sound hole and guitar edges, headstock, etc.--wherever there's a sharpish corner. Try to avoid these completely until the flat areas are done, then just give them a SLIGHT lick and a promise. Add compound as required.

Work a small area (a couple of square inches at a time only) until glossy, and then move on. When the entire guitar has a nice level of hazy but glossy surface, move on to the glaze.

(Step #2) I recommend 3M "Perfect-It III Trizact" Machine Glaze, applied of course by hand. This is their product # 05930. Again, clean cloth, dry this time, work small areas, stay away from edges and corners. The guitar should look nearly water-wet following this stage. Then TWO coats of a water-based pure wax blend (Meguair's Medallion or Zymol are two preferred products). I stay away from waxes which use a petroleum distillate as a solvent, as they do not allow "build" and will yellow the guitar's finish in time and possibly also lead to checking after several years.

Wipe off any excess material from each step before moving on to the next step and next grade of liquid material. Finally, buff carefully with another absolutely clean, dry cotton cloth. Results may vary with your experience level, but if you keep at it, it will eventually blind you in a good way...SHINY, my friend.

Do NOT use any kind of rubbing compound on any metal parts, especially chrome! 3M Imperial Hand Glaze (#39007) works well on chrome and plastic like pickguards and tailpieces.

$1000.00 for a Lefty Ric 1997 with t... Is that a good deal? What do you think?