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Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 4:44 am
by jingle_jangle
It can be put back together; it's molded acrylic on the newer ones, molded butyrate on older. Not sure which one yours would be.

The problem is that you can glue successfully, but it's hard to get the crack to disappear. You'll have your best results with a solvent-type, water-thin cement like Weld-On 3. apply with a small brush from the back. Just touch the tip of a loaded brush to the assembled joint. Don't brush--it will dissolve the paint if you do. The cement should flow up into the crack. Hold the piece motionless for a minute or two and carefully set it down on a flat surface to set up overnight. The joint line may melt together this way. This works best on the acrylic ones.

Some folks (including our friend Mr. Erlewine) will recommend super glue for this, and while it will hold the pieces together, there's that nasty crack line left to remind you.

Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 5:59 am
by dale_fortune
Jeff...guitar-parts.com . they have repros that are very nice

Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 2:44 pm
by jps
Thanks for the info guys! Mine is the old one from '61.

In addition to ordering '60s NOS chrome switch tips from Blackrider Vintage Guitars I also ordered two NOS surrounds, but it would be nice to keep the original on the guitar.

Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 2:49 pm
by jps
The bridge on the DA is a wooden one that looks like it came on the guitar. It does look the same as ones I have seen on mid '50s Gretsch(es?) so perhaps they threw that on when the guitar was built. Most came with the Space Control bridge but I like the tone of the DA as is, I would think metal saddles may brighten the tone up more. If I were to put a different bridge on it I may opt for the Melita (Synchro-sonic).

Please give me your opinions on the bridge as I can get a Melita for a decent price at the moment. Thanks! Image

Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 5:10 pm
by paologregorio
I had a Melita bridge on my `55 RI duo jet, but it lacked the sustain my Space controller bridge equipped `57 RI Silverjet had, so I replaced the Melita with a space controller and the problem was solved.

Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 6:17 pm
by jps
Sustain is certainly not lacking on this guitar with the wood bridge. How solid is the SC bridge? Being rollers on a threaded rod I would expect a bit of play, yes?

Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 7:32 pm
by jingle_jangle
Go with Space Control or Rocking Bar, which intonates surprisingly well for a solid hunka brass. The Melitta is an overcomplicated, tone-robbing contraption which also prevents palm-muting.

Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:01 am
by jps
I guess the SC is the way to go then as most Annies had that to begin with. Thanks, Paul.

Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:41 am
by dale_fortune
Jeff, when I worked in the factory, sustain was what we put on the bare wood to make the guitars nice colors....

Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:50 am
by jingle_jangle
Har!

Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 6:54 am
by paologregorio
"Jeff, when I worked in the factory, sustain was what we put on the bare wood to make the guitars nice colors...." -Dale

ta tum tum, cymbal crash. Funny, Dale!

Jeff, the rollers have to be moved deliberately. The string tension keeps the rollers in place, and I think even with the strings off the rollers don't spin around too much unless deliberately.

I haven't used a rocking bar bridge in a long time. One came with my Tennesseean, but I followed the advice of a luthier and replaced it with a tune o matic bridge. I was going to put the rocking bar back on but I misplaced the "bar" piece of the rocking bar bridge, which I am quite perplexed about. I have the base, adjusting wheels, and spindles, but no bar. It's probably lying around in a corner right next to that other Rick HB 1 that I can't find. Weird.

Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 8:15 am
by jingle_jangle
"...but I followed the advice of a luthier and replaced it with a tune o matic bridge."

You "fixed" what wasn't broken. Did you have intonation problems? I think probably not, as long as your string gauge was in the appropriate range. The bars are commonly available from Blackrider and Warpdrive for about $35.00.

Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 8:53 am
by paologregorio
I know, dumb. I was ignorant of Gretsches back then(late 80s), and the guitar was in need of some TLC.

There was a lot of conventional wisdom around about Gretsch guitars and that was just plain wrong. There were those who said that a Bigsby couldn't be used without knocking the guitar out of tune unless one replaced the tuners with locking tuners-yeah right.

Thanks for the 411 Paul. I didn't want to have to buy a whole new setup when all I'm missing is the bar. I'll pick one up.

Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 11:16 am
by johnallg
About Gretsch and Bigsbys - the two guitar players in the group I was in back in the early 70s both had mid 60s Country Gentlemen guitars with Bigsby tailpieces and they never had problems keeping them in tune.

We did a lot of CSNY, obviously!

Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 3:10 pm
by jps
as long as your string gauge was in the appropriate range.


Which would be...?

+1 HAR!