Moving along, getting the wood block out of the bridge/mute bar cavity.
Small X-acto knife for the start
Made a small edge along the original edge to prevent the chisel from shooting underneath the lacquer íf I slip...
Larger chisel, go!
Plywood, what was this guy thinking!?
About 30 minutes later, holding my chisel overcontrolled fearing a frack up
Plywood's gone, now for the glue...
Tight, isn't it?
My victims!
Groundhole cleared, it was clotted with glue
And then I screwed on the bridge. The mutebar is too wide for the cavity, the bridge leans on the body through the mutebar. Damn it!
Measuring
Comparing
Right, just a millimeter too wide.
You'll kill me for this, but I cut away about 1 mm on each side so the mutebar would fit...
As a piece of would was cut out, the bridge sits a bit deeper. Keeping his *** up with some coins
No visible trace of the hole which held the BadAss bridge
As on the top, which you look down on whilst playing, there's quite the visible scar... Too bad...
What I noticed; this bridge does not have the usual Ric-taillift. It's totally level with the body... Weird...
No, you're not mistaken. The bridge is crooked. Sideways as well as in height (although the heightdifference on both corners to the puphole is just a 1 millimeter difference)
Quick check on the lining of the strings, keeping in mind that the bridge is crooked. Thank god, it's lined!
Now for something else. The trussrods. On the 4001 they look like this, pointed into the headstock.
As a comparisson I checked my 4003, which looked alot neater...
Now my question is, is there something wrong with my 4001 trussrods? Will it last and be a ***** to set up, or is there something seriously wrong with 'em?