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Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 2:10 pm
by winston
Too funny. That's a great one Kevin.
Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 2:13 pm
by kcole4001
If I remember correctly, Dane posted that one. I've saved the ones I like (feel a bit guilty about it, though). I don't know how to make my own, & if I did I might have a better job!

Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 3:53 pm
by ozover50
Close, Kevin... that came from me - I lifted it from the Ibanez forum - they have thousands of these things that you can use as avatars.

Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 10:43 pm
by sowhat
Ha! Didn't know it's that easy! Something new to learn every day!
Thanks for the info, Kevin!

Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2006 1:52 am
by kcole4001
I knew it was a jokester who posted it!
Happy to share, Sheena.

Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2006 1:45 pm
by xcoyle
Paul, great project!
Couple questions:
1. When you took off the back, and sanded the sides flat. How did you do this? I would assume this can not be hand sanded, becuase it has to be even all the way around.
2. The milling machine, I see you use it a lot for routing. What is the brand name and model number?
Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2006 7:21 pm
by jingle_jangle
Hi, David.
The sanding was performed on a 20" disc sander, running at slow speed (about 100 rpm) with the table removed and 100 grit paper mounted. Just three quick passes was all it took.
The milling machine is an Enco #100-1599, but any Bridgeport-type mill would work. I like these Chinese mills because they're sturdy and good for medium-duty use and cheap compared to an American-made Bridgeport. I've used 'em since 1983.
Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2006 7:46 pm
by xcoyle
Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2006 9:02 pm
by jingle_jangle
Sort of. The one in the eBay auction looks like a mid-1980s one with a smaller table and step-pulleys instead of variable speed. It would work for this type of work.
I might add that most of the woodworking operations that I use a mill for, could just as well be done with an overhead router (also called a "pin router" when a guide pin is fitted). These are much cheaper, a good deal lighter, loud and dangerous as hell. I can use my mill as a pin router on occasion with a pin rig that I built. It's quieter and steadier.
Posted: Sun Mar 19, 2006 10:44 am
by xcoyle
Thanks, Paul. I don't like loud or dangerous. I have a rule when I use my table router, wide awake.
I might go take a look if it is near by.
Posted: Sun Mar 19, 2006 12:33 pm
by jingle_jangle
David, just remember that these weight literally a ton so they should have a concrete floor (garage floor) to rest on.
Things to look out for: too much backlash on the X/Y screws, and bearing noise in the headstock assembly. More than .010" or so of backlash is unacceptable. If the seller says it can be adjusted out, have HIM do the adjustment as a condition of sale. Set the spindle belts at highest speed, and turn it on in both directions. Any bearing noise is unacceptable and expensive to fix. Walk away from it in this case.
In any event, a digital readout is a good investment, as are power feeds for the X and Z axis (especially the Z It gets old cranking that table up and down, Make sure the motor is single phase if it's going into your garage...
Posted: Mon Mar 20, 2006 8:02 am
by paulv63
That Capri is awsome. I love that model. I can't wait to see it come alive.
Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2006 6:02 pm
by xcoyle
Paul, whats happen with the Capri.
Finals?
Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2006 7:51 pm
by jingle_jangle
Finals won't be for awhile.
I'm assembling special parts and materials for the next stage--veneering the front and back and re-binding. I'm also going to re-do the inserts in the fretboard. Lots more with this project yet-to-come...
This will be a most unusual--but very traditional--guitar.
Posted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 5:48 pm
by johnallg
Paul, 2 weeks later and any progress on the Capri you can share?? Us junkies want to know....
