Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

either replace the tailpiece or add 2 extra screws ... if you replace it then it may just pull up again ... the 2 extra screws works fine but some people don't like the look ... the only tailpieces that will never pull up is the old 60 models ... also the extra screws tie the tailpiece into the wood body better and transfer sound ...

Can anyone provide a diagram of where the two extra screws go.And what length/type of screws to use.

Shawn, I have a template for that - if I can find it (I don't have with me a picture of it in use) ... I'll see if I can locate it tonight and if so, I'll make you a copy and send it to you.

use chrome bridge screws ... maybe about 3/4" long ...

I have one on my desk at the moment. It is a bit beat and a 5er but basically the same.

Shawn, here is an account of my experience with the tailpiece mod:

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here's a couple with 4 extra screws ...

that last one I had to put neck bolt screws to get it to hold down with 5 strings pulling on it ...

I believe I found a non-invasive way to correct the tailpiece lift....
First off, I straighten the tailpiece in a arbor press..The metal is "springy" so you need to bend it a bit further than need be to get it to spring right into position....just go slow!!
So far..every 4001 tailpiece I examine,about 12 in total, sufers from too DEEP of a routing for the tailpiece... The problem is the front 3 screws that are directly under the bridge saddles.. These 3 holes in every case I seen, DO NOT touch flush to the wood in the bottom of routing...Instead I measured gaps typically of .08" !!! This little "pocket" of space instigates and agrevates the tailpiece lift problem.. The more you tighten these 3 front screws, then the more you put a "pre-load" of force in the direction of helping the lift...
What is happening is that you have a lever action...As the front screws cause a downward force, this causes the edge of the body routing to press upward force against the tailpiece...
Once the lift starts, then the force of the lift plus the string force get increasing worse due to the progressivly increasing angle and thus progressivly increasing side force...
Once the bridge is straightened, the trick is to put # 10 washers under each of the 3 screw holes... In most cases it took 2 stacked washers for each of the 3 holes to make up the clearance..In one case it took 3 washers!!!
Once I fixed this problem..I strung up with RotoSounds 105-45 and I do not have any taile-lift so-far after 3 months....
Chris

Thank you very much everybody for the information. I tend to try buying an early 4003 or 4003/5 tailpiece that has the extra holes, if I can get one in chrome...?
On the other hand the less "invasive" first try could be the "Chris-method" after getting some suitable washers. I will show "before" and "after" pics.

Excellent advice, Chris. Seems like the way to go.

Did Ric basses ever ship with the extra screws in the tailpiece? My '87 4003 has these and I assumed they were stock.

Yes, most of what is pictured above is factory work.

Good. Just making sure

"So far..every 4001 tailpiece I examine,about 12 in total, sufers from too DEEP of a routing for the tailpiece... The problem is the front 3 screws that are directly under the bridge saddles.. These 3 holes in every case I seen, DO NOT touch flush to the wood in the bottom of routing...Instead I measured gaps typically of .08" !!! This little "pocket" of space instigates and agrevates the tailpiece lift problem.. The more you tighten these 3 front screws, then the more you put a "pre-load" of force in the direction of helping the lift... "

This could explain why every 4001 and 4003 tailpiece I've checked had somewhat loose screws.