4001 truss adjustment video?

[Kopfjaeger]

+1.

Although I'm new here I found the video to be a immense help. I suddenly understood and I wondered if the past set up tech had tried to set up my old Ric 4001 by the standard truss rod method. The internet, this forum and especially Rickenbrother's video cleared up a ton of misunderstandin about the truss rod system in my old 4001. I do not have either a 4001 or a You tube account but when I find a suitable 4001, I'll be getting a You Tube account and hopefully I'll be able to view the video to assist me in keeping my future 4001 in top shape.

Sepp

[rickenbrother]

I'm sorry to hear about his Joey,

I tried as well to check out #2 & 3 of your videos and was given the THIS VIDEO IS PRIVATE then the 404 page as well.

IDK what happened in the other thread, but EVERYONE has critics Joey. I hope a few bad apples spoil the whole project.

I'll get it sorted out for those in need.
It's sort of similar to the amount of people we've heard complain about the the weak sounding E string problem. Several were in my area. I'd told them the first guy who brings me their 4003 with this issue gets the fix free as long as they hold the video camera. Not once have I been taken up on my offer. Just goes to show, some people would rather have something to complain about.

[weemac]

I've never done the truss rods backed off to zero thing. However I always bend the neck and adjust to suit (although I do it a different way)
But again I have found the traditional 4001 truss rods to work well.
My Jack Spirra eight string bass uses this same system (+some carbon fiber) and it is the most stable of all my instruments...

Eden.

[antonius]

Joey,

What I can say is this. I used to adjust the rods with my bass upright between my left knee and right foot, which works, but it is hard to keep steady pressure on holding the neck straight as you tighten the nuts. After watching your video it became very clear to me that clamping the bass to the desk gives you a LOT more control over the procedings. So I tried this with my bass and found it so much easier and I got the neck straighter than I've ever managed before. I always thought the rods on my bass were a little awkward but now I've learned that they actually work really well when you have more control over holding the neck straight and keeping it there so the tension is definitely completely off the rods. So I would say thank you, your video helped me decide on a better way of doing things. It's hard to keep eveyone happy but the help you've given me with your videos and website has been invaluable and I am very grateful for it.

[ram]

I have a couch where I put the neck over the are at the correct spot and put a heavy feather pillow on the tailpiece part of the body as a counter weight to bending the neck.... works good for me. GREAT videos Joey - you are part of the solution!!

[whoapower]

Joey, great videos! Very helpful. But like others, I'm a bit scared to mess with the Ric trussrod myself, but I think I might have to.

Currently, I have a 4004L and on the G string at the 4th/5th fret (sometimes on the D string as well) it seems the truss rod buzzes or something buzzes. Any suggestions on what I should be looking at to fix this issue?

[rickenbrother]

Randy, thank you for the kind words. The sound really travels well through the the wood, so sometimes it's hard to tell what really is buzzing or rattling. check your bridge saddle springs. They can sometimes buzz or rattle when certain notes are played. Check every screw to make sure they are snug and also check the strap buttons.
If it is the truss rods, a little tweak, about an 1/8th turn clockwise to each should usually stop the rattling and not mess with your setup.

[steversaurus]

Just gotta say thanks again for the video. Had an old 4001 with some tricky rods that I just adjusted. I'd say the video gave me that extra boost of confidence to finally get around to do it. Was actually easier than I thought. Well other than digging out the bent rods. That made me a little apprehensive, but everything worked out.

[DavyR]

I visited an out-of-my-town private music store yesterday. They are somewhat known and have a good reputation as does their repairman who is in his 50s and has had decades of experience. I asked the repairman about adjusting the neck on a vintage 1970s RIC 4001 bass. He knew NOTHING about the old truss rods system and said to just tighten the nuts. Amazing!

[wyldryce]

So, the time came for me to adjust the truss rod on my trusty '77 4001 and armed with Joey's web page (though sadly without the video anymore) I decided I could take this on myself. I setup all my other instruments, and I didn't see why I couldn't manage with the Ric as well. Then it occurred to me, why not make a video of the process in an attempt to help anybody else in the future...so here's my (probably over-long) contribution to the Ric You-tube content of the world.

Hope this helps somebody out, and thanks again to Rickenbrother for all the tech advice you've disseminated to the public!

Cheers,
R


https://www.youtube.com/embed/32y3_vTIQLk

[jps]

[wyldryce]

Thanks JPS, I think it wouldn't let me embed, because I've always been a lurker rather than a poster

[jps]

Glad to be of service!

Welcome to the RRF.

[DavyR]

Nice job! Questions: When you clamp the body, as you did and since the body is really a neck thru with 2 wings attached, are you putting too much pressed on the body wings and therefore taking a chance of loosening them? Also, why didn't you clamp the neck at the first few frets near the nut to help to avoid popping the fretboard? Thanks!

[wyldryce]

Great questions! Given the skinny neck, and the wings being 7/8'ths of the body width, You'd have to have some different clamping scheme than I utilized to clamp the neck portion as well. I suppose one could use a different desk/workbench and clamp back at the bridge. One could also use a helper to hold down some pressure at the bridge end. Given that the neck is supported by the point of the desk, and that you really aren't pulling down THAT hard the risk seemed minimal (IE: I didn't give it much thought)

I don't suppose it's impossible to shear a wing off, but I think it'd take a lot more egregious force or a weak glue joint. Are those joints reinforced (biscuit, etc) at all?

As far as the fretboard, when I actually did the adjustment, I was pressing down with my left hand along the first fret area with my palm and tightening with my right hand. The only time I was pulling down from underneath was when I was initially loosening the nuts. Also with the nuts loose, I don't feel like the act of tensioning the neck itself is likely to pop the board loose. From all that I've heard, the most likely scenario is the board being levered off by the truss rods being bowed via screwing down the nuts, while not doing anything to manually move the neck ahead of time.

hope this helps clear up any confusion...