Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I put the ABM I have up against the Hipshot. The Hipshot is about 1/8" wider but comes up short about 1/4" front to back. I still think it is a superior bridge, though.

Ted

Can't wait to see this finished! Sterling work all round. With regards to the comments on action, I completely agree, its all about what works for you. I recently met up with another UK Forum member and he was amazed how lightly I played, and I was amazed how hard he played! His favourite Rick had what I would consider high action; I could hardly get a note out of it. I didn't have mine with me but I'm sure it would've just been one long buzz if he'd played it. I always did have a leaning towards sitars! I loved the old Entwistle quote "I like my strings on the OTHER side of the frets"! As for "When a luthier becomes judgemental about your style preferences, it is time to move on", that's why my normal luthier is my normal luthier. Only used the other guy (v nice guy mind) cause I had a credit with him. Its a pity you're not in these parts Ted as you may find yourself doing quite a bit of my work! (Problem I always had was very few luthiers over here in the UK seem to know a lot about Ricks; why is that?)

It is not just the UK. Many luthiers and guitar techs here don't know much about them. I suspect that is why there are so many truss rod issues with the older ones.

Ok, not really exciting but here is the first coat of tung oil.




I am a terrible photographer but here is an attempt to capture the flame on the fingerboard. It is really very nice but I can't do it any service with my camera.

Ted, really great pics, the Maple almost looks translucent, and the body has a wondefull glow to it. I see the implant on the bridge recess went well. The replacement looks good.

Shaun, I'm the same as you are and play light. I let the pickups and my amp do the work. I can't believe how hard I see some players thrashing into their strings.

I agree with your about setup. It's your preference, and unless you're doing something really dumb with your Bass then the way you want it is how you get it.

Ted, I agree...The overall knowledge content of most luthiers and the direct effect of so many older Rics being ruined is related. I took my 64 to one of London,s premier places in the late 80,s and they didn,t know what to do adjustment wise. Another "expert" nearly ruined the same bobbin in rewinding it. I,ve learnt more here in 3 years than I knew in the last 20. It,s a pity more luthiers don,t log in....

Not to nail any of them, luthiers need to focus on the fact that not everything is done the same way. There are smiliarities but most instruments have some different quirks. Ricks are special in the fact that there is the double truss rod system and HOW the adjustment is done. It is not just spin the adjuster bolts and move on. I only know of one or two people who I would trust to adjust mine (if I did not know how to do it)

Couldn't agree more. The trouble with my 72 trussrods was caused by someone with an immense amount of knowledge in most areas of guitar building who just didn't know the correct way to adjust them; however I've been playing Ricks for 24 years and only just recently found out the correct way to adjust the rods on a 4001, and that thanks to the Forum. I used to think I knew quite a bit about Rick basses, but I found out how little I really knew when I joined the Forum. The information here is invaluable.

And Jim, nice to hear of another light player; I was beginning to think I was a wimp

Ted, keep up the good work! The bass is looking great! When do you get your own tv series, "Fixin' Ricks?"?

I have a really intersting one coming up as soon as the Cheyenne is done.

Hm... A 21 fret 4001, maybe?

No, not quite that cool but it will require some separation of glued-together wood. That is always fun. I will show pics in a week or so once the Cheyenne is done.

Here it is...........

Here are some detail shots........
This is the fit of the new fingerboard at the body end. I replaced the acorn nuts on the truss rods because they were crushed to nearly flat.



This part could have been done to look better but I learned a lot from doing it this way. My greatgrandfather was a furniture builder. I am sure he is spinning in his grave over those seams! It is solid but not as elegant as it could have been.......



Here is a shot of the beautiful flaming on the fingerboard...

Ted,

Those seams are a small price to pay considering the condition the bass was in when you got it.....basically uplayable!

Looks like you've now got a great bass on you hands....nice job!

It plays very nicely but I still have to fix a fret or two. The electronics are a mess! Lots of bad solder and it needs a new tone cap. Nothing an an hour or so can't fix. When it is ready it may go to live with Jaymi. He wants to add it to his collection. To be honest, I like the idea of a forum member getting it. This bass need some love. Hopefully, it is set to last for several decades.

well a strange quirk of fate ... I was the high bidder on this bass on ebay ...

Ted did a good job repairng the neck ... I think it is stronger than a stock 4004C neck now ... when I got it the truss rods were finger tight and it had light strings ... I put a set of fat higher tension rotosounds on it ... the truss rods are still finger tight ... I did a set up I ground a little out of the nut slots and adjusted the bridge ...

The bass is good ... it is lighter than a 4004L and a little warmer sounding and it has a good growl ...

The gold hardware is worn ... so I may replace it with new gold hardware or chrome or black ... I am also considering making it a 4 to 5 conversion ... and I am considering making it vol vol tone and no toggle ...

The new maple fret board will shrink in the lower humidity of a Michigan winter ... So I will probably have to dress the frets ... I had to do the same on my 4004L ...

again good job Ted ... you do good work ... not quite as good as the Ric factory ... but they don't do repairs on used instruments ...