Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Yeah, the matches were definitely out!!!
I nearly cracked and paid out silly money to get her fixed.
In the end all I paid for were the actual truss rods. All other work was done by my brother and friends.
I put the beast back together and that bit was easy.
Maybe one of the QC operatives at RIC was having an off day. Couldn't believe the amount of masking tape. These new rods make things so much easier.
I would say to anyone having problems with their necks to check the rods and get rid of any excess tape. You only need one layer, not 4!!!!

Off to play the Monty, later...

Hard to believe how a little thing like tape could create so much trouble. Worth the effort, those Montys are beautiful pieces.

It's just like life at times, it's those little things that get you.

I wanted a Jetglo, a la Geddy Lee. Saw the Monty and fell in love with the colour. Had to have it.
Everytime I play live, a crowd of people gathers in between sets to check her out. They're all guys though. C'mon girls, lets have ya. I've got a sticker on my amp which reads, 'Groupie Assembly Point'. Maybe I need a technique that is a tad more subtle. LOL!

Just to let everyone know my Monty 4003 is still doing fine. No real neck problems or rod problems.
I will have to book her in for an overhaul though. It seems as if there is some wood compression at the body end of the 'E' side rod. This is making getting the neck flat on that side a wee bit tricky!!
According to Ted Staberow this can be fixed with a bit of dowel rod.
Have a gig tomorrow night which should be awesome. Have added a few new songs to the set. So fingers crossed.
Best wishes to everyone.....

Played the gig. The Monty sounded absolutely fantastic. I nailed THE tone with my parametric. Got the sound perfect for the room. The bass end was full and lush and the top end was sparkling with loads of clank when I hit the strings hard. It sounded slightly overdriven, but there was not an ounce of overdrive anywhere in the chain.
Stupendous gig. The band and audience went home very happy.
I'm glad now that I didn't offload the Rick. When you nail the tone, there is not another bass by any other manufacturer that comes close!
YEEEEESSSSSSSSS!!!......

Jeez Mark, after reading your post I want to run out and buy a Rick.......er....... make that another Rick.

See Ken how this starts?

It's certainly an addiction. The looks grab you by the balls then the knockout punch is the sound. Makes grown men weep... BOO HOO!!! LOL.

Makes me wish I was a better bass player, that's for sure!

It seems like the most important question of all was never asked throughout this thread. What kind of wrench was used to adjust the truss rod?

It's almost impossible to break one of these using the proper nutdriver, unless you're Hulk Hogan- your hand will slip first. But it's very easy to do if you use a socket or T wrench.

John, it is a proper nut driver purchased from yourselves. There is a bit of wood compression at the body end trussrod routes. I bought the bass brand new. I don't know if it was overtightened at the factory or at the shop I bought it at.
It's a moot point as the bass is out of warranty. The fingerboard is also a bit uneven too, but you pays your money etc...
I'll have to get a luthier here in the UK to try and fix the problems I have. The instrument is still awesome, so these few niggles can be sorted out.
Thanks for your interest.

The fingerboard being a bit uneven may just be an indication of a fret dressing needing to be done, something virtually all new instruments need.

With regard to the wood compression, it's fairly easy to solve. This does crop up from time to time given that some wood is softer than other pieces.

With the rod out of the neck, simple saturate the body end of the truss rod slot with CA (super glue) and let it dry. The wood swells a bit and becomes quite hard, providing a nice surface for the rod to sit against. We do this on the alder necked instruments as a matter of course.

Clap, Clap, Clap, Clap, Clap!

I love it when the big guy stops by.

Too right!! It's good to get these simple inside tips from THE man who knows.

Would I then have to make/drill a hole for the truss rod? Or should I just saturate the outer part of the slot leaving the inner 'hole' free?

Any tips are welcome...

John, I would like to say that the 4003 is a beautiful instrument, in EVERY way.

Just saturate the wood around the truss rod opening, where the acorn nut and washer bind into the wood- don't block the slot at all. All it does is toughen up the wood around the end of the slot, giving it a harder area to sit on.