Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I can see that. These look like they appeared at the wing seams. I have another on the front I'll have to remove the hardware to get to. I'll likely do that within the next week.

After cleaning up the frets earlier and getting rid of the flashback, this thing will look mint.

I'm beginning to not miss the MG I had years ago now.

Oh, who am I kidding. Yeah, I miss that old bass too.

I've lost the output on my bridge pickup and since I'll have to remove hardware to sort it out, I figured I'd go ahead and give my 4001 the Scratch Doctor/Zymol treatment. I think I know the answer to my question, but it never hurts to be sure.

There's an area on the back below the upper horn where the finish has been abraded away (hey, it's 37 years old, and was steadily gigged for 18 or so of those!). Lookie here:



Here's a closeup:



I know it's a prime candidate for refinishing, but that's not in the cards just now (maybe next year). Meanwhile, is there any reason to avoid this area with either Scratch Doctor or Zymol?

Yes, you should avoid those raw wood areas with your "treatment". They will leave a chalky white residue in the pores and grain. I found this out by experience. If it happens, though, there is another product that Paul mentioned that will clean up the residue. I forget what it's called ... maybe Paul will pipe up here and remind me.

It looks like the finish in that area is worn down to bare wood. I'd avoid getting anything wet, including Scratch-X and Zymol near that area.
I'd only use a product that has Paul W's approval there, that Kira mentions.

Hmmm...wish I could remember what I recommended to protect bare wood...

I thought Kira was stating something about removing residue if you accidentally got zymol or Scratch-X on bare wood...

Kira states:

I found this out by experience. If it happens, though, there is another product that Paul mentioned that will clean up the residue.

Am I reading this wrong?

I would think some sort of wood oil (tung/teak?) would remove the residue but I'm no wood expert.

Scott is correct, Paul. You wrote about a "restore-a-finish", or "renew-a-finish", some product name like that, that you said would clean the residue out from the raw wood areas on my 430 ... ring a bell?

jingle_jangle wrote:Hmmm...wish I could remember what I recommended to protect bare wood...

Who'sie-Whatses Bare Wood Protector?

*ducks for cover from thrown shoe*

I would hesitate to put oil on the wood, in case I ever wanted to do a nice re-finish.

Yeah, oils and waxes seem like a bad idea.

It's easy enough to avoid the affected area while polishing, and I promise not to bathe with it or take it out in the rain. It is indeed to down to bare wood, and it's obviously picked up dirt and sweat, and possibly small doses of fermented beverages. Should I attempt to clean the patch, and if so, with what? Or just let it go until it can be refinished?

rickenbrother wrote: Who'sie-Whatses Bare Wood Protector?

Google turns up bupkis on a search for this particular product.

Here it is

http://rickresource.com/forum/viewtopic ... 04#p613748

Howard's Restore-A-Finish...

Grand confusion. I recommended Howard's to fill in scratches on a 430, and Kira's 430 is not maple--it's mahogany, a much more open grained hardwood. The Howard's penetrates and fills the damaged wood fibers, making scratches much less obvious.

There's nothing around that will help large unfinished areas on a maple Rick of any model, in this manner. Maple is a very close-grained wood, and difficult to penetrate.

However, it wouldn't hurt to wipe it with some Xylene or solvent-based wax and grease remover, scuff it with some #00 steel wool to remove as much of the dirt as possible, let dry a day, and lightly brush on some clear lacquer or varnish to protect the area until a refinish can be accomplished.

Thanks, Paul!

Do I have to worry about Xylene taking off the CV?

Nope. It's a relatively mild solvent.

Great. I'll hold off on the pup repair and overall polishing until I can do this task.

Thanks again.