Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Great info.

I'll be starting this project in the next day or so. Would it be helpful for peeps if I posted step-by-step photos of the Scratch-X/Zymol procedure from start to finish? (Maybe such a thing already exists here, but I haven't found it.)

Sure, we always like pictures, especially ones that tell a story, or show how to do stuff...

. . . or, as may turn out to be the case, how not to do stuff . . .

I want to bump this up to the top for the numerous newer members who may not have seen it back in 2006-2010!

Paul, thanks for bumping this "Primer". It should serve the new members well.

I have a question related to an oil finish Rickenbacker (such as a 650 Dakota). Once wood has been oiled like this, and touched up over the years, can you ever really remove that oil from the wood, with sanding and paint remover chemicals, etc. if someone wanted to refinish such a guitar in a painted finish ?? Or is the situation that once a Dakota, its always that way for life ?

The oil does dry out over time. I would not paint (for instance) one of the Vermilion 650s due to color bleeding, but the Walnut and Maple 650s are fair game.

The walnut would have to be dry (not recently oiled) and I'd use conversion varnish as a sealer under color. The open pores should be filled first; I use a water-based microballoon sealer which can be bought at Stew-Mac or LMI.

Once the CV sealer is cured, it should be sanded flat and dull with #320. Solid color can be applied right over the CV, then additional coats of CV should be applied on top, flatted and buffed.

If the new color is a pearlescent or metallic, I use a polyester primer (Evercoat) over the sanded CV. I then wet sand the polyester primer with #600 before I apply color. Any scratches greater than #600 will show under pearls and metallics.

jingle_jangle wrote:The oil does dry out over time. I would not paint (for instance) one of the Vermilion 650s due to color bleeding, but the Walnut and Maple 650s are fair game.

The walnut would have to be dry (not recently oiled) and I'd use conversion varnish as a sealer under color. The open pores should be filled first; I use a water-based microballoon sealer which can be bought at Stew-Mac or LMI.

Once the CV sealer is cured, it should be sanded flat and dull with #320. Solid color can be applied right over the CV, then additional coats of CV should be applied on top, flatted and buffed.

If the new color is a pearlescent or metallic, I use a polyester primer (Evercoat) over the sanded CV. I then wet sand the polyester primer with #600 before I apply color. Any scratches greater than #600 will show under pearls and metallics.

Thanks for the info, Paul ! I will keep these possibilities in mind, if I happen to come across a bargain priced Dakota one of these days ....

Dave Scantland wrote:I'll be starting this project in the next day or so. Would it be helpful for peeps if I posted step-by-step photos of the Scratch-X/Zymol procedure from start to finish? (Maybe such a thing already exists here, but I haven't found it.)

That would be great, yes.

Bump! I just was perusing this thread,as I recently bought a 4004c,and found the recommendation for Watco's Danish oil. Does it matter much if the Watco's used is the CLEAR or the NATURAL varity? I found the natural in stock at my local Ace,but i would think i might want "clear"---?

They are equivalent. Neither has any colorant. Perfect for your 4004.

I have some updates for this thread, for conversion varnish finishes and the newer UV-cured polyester finish, based upon some research that I've been doing the last 18 months. Stay tuned.

jingle_jangle wrote:They are equivalent. Neither has any colorant. Perfect for your 4004.

I have some updates for this thread, for conversion varnish finishes and the newer UV-cured polyester finish, based upon some research that I've been doing the last 18 months. Stay tuned.

Excellent,thanks for "clearing" that up!

woodyng wrote:Excellent,thanks for "clearing" that up!

Don't you mean, clearing that up, naturally?

jingle_jangle wrote:They are equivalent. Neither has any colorant. Perfect for your 4004.

I have some updates for this thread, for conversion varnish finishes and the newer UV-cured polyester finish, based upon some research that I've been doing the last 18 months. Stay tuned.

Yay! Can't wait to hear the info on CV finishes generally, and the UV-cured in particular!

The `82 Ruby you refinished remains a stunner.

jingle_jangle wrote: I have some updates for this thread, for conversion varnish finishes and the newer UV-cured polyester finish, based upon some research that I've been doing the last 18 months. Stay tuned.

Tuned, and glad to know that you're on the problem.