Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Captain Bob wrote:For those instruments that are more challenging for sneaking an adjustment tool between the headstock and nut this tool from POTR (GP140) is thinner walled, than say the Xcelite L8 (97002).

GP140_4__83273.1405368464.380.380.jpg

I works nicely, and its short arm limits the torque one can apply. I prefer it over the L8.

http://www.pickofthericks.com/1-4-truss-rod-tool/

I thought RIC had said short handle angled wrenches like this had way too much torque and damaged the truss rod system.

Actually, they allow a person to apply too much torque because of the leverage that can be had. The torque that can be applied with the linear nut driver type is limited by the strength of the person's grip. Now, clamp a big ol' vise-grip pliers at 90º to the handle of the nut driver and you can over-torque easily. I think things were a lot more dangerous with the old-style ("hairpin") rods where turning the nuts easily could result in flipping the hairpins over and popping the fingerboards off or cracking the neck at the volute.

To re-open a month old thread... here is another methodology for hairpin rod neck tweaking.
Follow the proper ideology of strings at pitch, nuts backed off about an 1/8" from the bearing plate. Instead of pulling on the neck to achieve a back-bow, place this beam at the end of the fretboard (body end). Then, place a 6" trigger clamp in the middle with padding for the back of the neck and squeeze to achieve the desired bow more accurately. Gently snug the nuts.

Larry Wilson (Wilson Guitar Works) who breathed life into this '64, very kindly surprised me by gifting one of these beams to me.

That looks like a nice piece of QS oak!

jps wrote:That looks like a nice piece of QS oak!

Nothing escapes this man!