Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Hi, I have the ability to get a 4001 1977 Ric at a good price.-

I seem to remember reading that the necks have some problems with certain gauge strings?

What should I look for in a 4001 model that could be a headache down the road?

Lastly- 4001 Ric-does it have a 1 5/8 nut width?

Thanks
W

Here is the 'problem' with that era of Rick .

The truss rods .....for some reason , 99% of all repair people do not understand how to operate them .They all think that they are dealing with a Fender 3/16 cold rolled steel set of rods (like the 'new' Rick rods, and they torque them and pop the fretboard , etc.

Knowing that part of adjusting the neck is ,maybe, removing the rods, de-tuning the strings, bending the neck in an arch and then reinstalling the rods , tightening them and THEN retuning ....that it a mental block that these knuckleheads are having .

As NO other brand of guitar/bass needed that operation done to it , that is the reason for adjustment troubles ! PERIOD!

I don't recall the nut width , it is listed in a comparision chart some where at this site ...I wrote of different neck sizes once .It is here .

If you look at this bass .....sight the edge of the fret board to see if it is reasonably straight and then have the guts to remove the nameplate .This might be a concern for the seller , but you need to check this on older Ricks. Check to see if the rod nuts are distorted and if the aluminum block is squished and tortured.If so , then check the seam of the fretboard at the nut area ...see if it is open on either side.

Lastly .....take a tape measure with you , and check the bridge placement it should be the distance from the nut to the middle of the 12th fret ,double that and add alittle ...this will place it so you CAN intonate the strings.A warning sign of incorrect location is this -if you see wood in the mute cavity over 1/16" toward the neck , this will most likely need to be moved away from the neck ,for the string intonation to be correct .
I just redid a 1968 4001 bass for David Axt of Seattle , and needed to move the tailpiece /bridge assembly 1/2"! the 1970's need to be moved only 1/8" or so .

Thank you for insight. This bass does have some seperation -more of a slight crack alone the seam
where the board joins with the neck.

I think I will look for a reissue bass- all the look and shape but with modern technology.

Mark,
Having read and used your truss rod fixes for
my 4001 RF3413 I would like to know more about
the details of the intonation/bridge position
mods that you have done to this point.
If this is already available please point
me to it. Low E seems to have run out of space
even after trimming some of the saddles underside
for more travel.Wood mods/movement details/
Alternatives appreciated. This Bass is totally
stock as I bought it in ! 1979 Thanks RCL

Rick: In theory, and this is just the way I see it, a lighter E string should alleviate the problem, however I believe the only valid way to address the issue is moving the entire bridge/tailpiece unit somewhat back, i.e. toward the edge of the body. 1/8" to 3/16" TOPS should do the trick.