325V63JG REFINISH
Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2005 12:13 pm
A few weeks back, I was contacted by Forum member David Blair, who had a pristine 325V63 with some finish problems. It seems his guitar had had some repairs done to the heel at one time in the past, and the touchup job, though glossy enough, was pretty obvious.
Davis asked my advice on whether to try to blend the touchup, or whether to do a complete refinish. I asked him to send the guitar so I could have a look, and then advised a refinish.
The heel area had one substantial nick, and from my inspection I could see that the neck-to-body joint in the heel area had cracked and had been repaired, but the touch up had cracked and creeped again, besides having been done ON TOP of the conversion varnish and over the repair's glue joint, which had bubbled a bit.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/jingle_jangle/neckjoint.jpg
The gloss didn't match and in strong light, the black paint which was used (nitrocellulose) was grayer than the factory black. The coversion varnish had not been sanded to remove the gloss and to improve adhesion, so the blend zone had a strange black overlay stripe at the joint.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/jingle_jangle/heelnick.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/jingle_jangle/jointblend.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/jingle_jangle/neckblendsanded2.jpg
In addition, there were at least a half-dozen minor flaws in the factory paint job (JG is a ***** to do in a production situation!) which we agreed I would take care of.
There were some areas where some fuzz or lint had landed in the varnish coat when it was wet. One was just south of the jack plate, and another was on the back near the center.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/jingle_jangle/jackglitch.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/jingle_jangle/boutdefect.jpg
There was also a pretty substantial sag in the varnish which hadn't been sanded completely flat, and resulted in some distorted highlights in the lower bout edge.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/jingle_jangle/varnishrun.jpg
Remember: RIC's finishing department is the bottleneck in the production of these beautiful instruments, and I'm sure things get to be a bit pressured from time to time. Anyway, it's flat now, but it took 20 minutes of careful flattening--something that can't always be done on an assembly-line basis.
I disassembled the guitar, unsoldering the pickup wired at the pots, and masked the fretboard since it did not need another couple of coats of paint! I discovered an interesting factory adaptation, done post-finishing with a drum sander in a handheld die grinder or perhaps a drill press. This was done to accommodate the pots in final assembly.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/jingle_jangle/openmod.jpg
The guitar was very carefully wet-sanded with #600 paper, using my favorite detail block, made of very dense EDPM foam rubber. This block has just enough give to minimize wear on the paper, and is stiff enough to yield a very flat surface. Contrary to what many people believe, a super-hard and super-flat block should only be used to take down high spots on very fine surfaces and is not the best for this sort of work.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/jingle_jangle/epdmblock.jpg
Davis asked my advice on whether to try to blend the touchup, or whether to do a complete refinish. I asked him to send the guitar so I could have a look, and then advised a refinish.
The heel area had one substantial nick, and from my inspection I could see that the neck-to-body joint in the heel area had cracked and had been repaired, but the touch up had cracked and creeped again, besides having been done ON TOP of the conversion varnish and over the repair's glue joint, which had bubbled a bit.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/jingle_jangle/neckjoint.jpg
The gloss didn't match and in strong light, the black paint which was used (nitrocellulose) was grayer than the factory black. The coversion varnish had not been sanded to remove the gloss and to improve adhesion, so the blend zone had a strange black overlay stripe at the joint.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/jingle_jangle/heelnick.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/jingle_jangle/jointblend.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/jingle_jangle/neckblendsanded2.jpg
In addition, there were at least a half-dozen minor flaws in the factory paint job (JG is a ***** to do in a production situation!) which we agreed I would take care of.
There were some areas where some fuzz or lint had landed in the varnish coat when it was wet. One was just south of the jack plate, and another was on the back near the center.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/jingle_jangle/jackglitch.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/jingle_jangle/boutdefect.jpg
There was also a pretty substantial sag in the varnish which hadn't been sanded completely flat, and resulted in some distorted highlights in the lower bout edge.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/jingle_jangle/varnishrun.jpg
Remember: RIC's finishing department is the bottleneck in the production of these beautiful instruments, and I'm sure things get to be a bit pressured from time to time. Anyway, it's flat now, but it took 20 minutes of careful flattening--something that can't always be done on an assembly-line basis.
I disassembled the guitar, unsoldering the pickup wired at the pots, and masked the fretboard since it did not need another couple of coats of paint! I discovered an interesting factory adaptation, done post-finishing with a drum sander in a handheld die grinder or perhaps a drill press. This was done to accommodate the pots in final assembly.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/jingle_jangle/openmod.jpg
The guitar was very carefully wet-sanded with #600 paper, using my favorite detail block, made of very dense EDPM foam rubber. This block has just enough give to minimize wear on the paper, and is stiff enough to yield a very flat surface. Contrary to what many people believe, a super-hard and super-flat block should only be used to take down high spots on very fine surfaces and is not the best for this sort of work.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v693/jingle_jangle/epdmblock.jpg
