Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

There is someting wrong with the neck from my Rick (see the picture). I am Dutch and do not know how to subscribe my problem.
How can I repair the neck???

Where is that on the neck Jos? Around what frets? Is it near the nut? Is there a separation between the fretboard and the neck, it's hard to see from this picture. If that's the problem it can be fixed.

Thanks for the quick reply.
Yes it is the fretboard that is coming loose from the neck (see the picture). It starts between the second and the third fret and stops near the fifth fret.
How can I repair that? You know the answer?
In the meantime I am using my Framus S380 (1972) and Epiphone EB3 (2004)

Hi Jos.

You just described my 4001 from 1975.

Is this a common problem maybee? Anyone?

I think all the older 4001's are subject to this. Happened to my 75 in the early 80's. My separation was at the nut, and on one side started to curve into the neck wood. I was scared to **** about it.

Took it to a guy who repaired all sorts of stringed instruments, and he said "no problem. Don't wee about it"

22 years later there has been no hint of return for this problem. Not sure what caused it, or exactly how the guy fixed it. But I gather it involves taking the fingerboard off the neck and glueing it back on. Quite possible that the glue used actually cures to be stronger than the wood was originally.

Jos and Frode, I have posted a cross-link to this thread in the Vibrola (Technical) section, so hopefully the experts will see it and post some recommendations/solutions here.

I don't see the link you put in Gary so here's my method: I would buy some Elmers wood glue, the super kind is better (white wood glue), take off the strings and loosen your truss rods so they are not pushing up on the fretboard, put the glue into the separation with your finger, try to get a decent amount in, enough that you think will cover a substantial amount for the two surfaces you want glued but don't overdo it either, Wipe off any excess with a wet cloth and clamp it with medium strength using a piece of wood and a rag on the back and maybe the same on the front, you don't want to dent your neck. Check for any glue squeezing out regularly for a couple of hours and wipe with wet cloth. Leave the clamp on for about twenty four hours. Make sure when you reinstall the strings and start to retighten the truss rods that you take the pressure off the truss rods as you tighten them if the are 4001's or early 4003's. For 4001's I put the bottom of the bass on a rug with my right foot behind the bottom so it doesn't slip, put my right knee behind the neck-body joint area and use my left hand to pull back on the neck at around the first fret nut area and and at the same time turn the nuts with a 1/4" nut driver sighting down the neck all the time until it looks pretty straight (I know this because I feel the nuts getting tighter and I let go of the neck to see where it's at), then keep adjusting till you get it like you like it. Early 4003's are easier, just lay it on a rug or table and it'll be obvious, just make sure the neck has pressure pushing it down toward the floor or table as you turn the nuts.
I did the same thing to a 4001 that I had that had a crack in a much more crucial area, I had a crack run from the nut to about the second fret and it was jagged on both sides, I used that method and it's been fine since. It's really a very easy fix especially in your case where it is only the fretboard separating from the neck.

Thanks for the info, Bob, that should help both Jos and Frode.

BTW, my post in the Tech section is here:

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Ahh I get it, you posted it in the Vibrola.
Hey that's a pretty cool circular thread Gary, like circular breathing.

That is your basic delamination due to improper trussing. It is quite fixable. A good repair shop can put it right for you or you can do it your self if you are handy.

I have done a few and this is how I approach the problem. There are probably several possible methods but this one has worked for me. Basically, you need to get some wood glue into the separation then clamp the pieces together. The gap is fairly narrow so you will need to dilute the glue so it will flow in deep enough to make a difference. The problem is that you don't want to also glue the truss rods. I would start by finding a perfectly straight and rigid piece of wood or metal that is between 12 and 18 inches long. I use a fret leveler like this one.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for:_Fretting/Fret_Fingerboard_Levelers.html

Whatever you use should be smooth and clean so that it won't damage the frets or finish once clamped in place. This tool will serve to align the neck as the glue sets. If you clamp a long separation without proper alignemnt you can create playability problems (high or low spots on the fingerboard) that will be tough to fix. With the strings on and the truss rods set as they are, flood the gap with the diluted glue. Masking tape on either side of of the separation will make cleanup easier later. Working quickly, remove the strings and loosen the truss rods then carefully clamp your alignment tool to the fret side of the neck applying pressure directly to the separation. You will have to move the rods around a bit to prevent the glue from setting them in place. When loosened, they can slide out to the neck by prying gently under the aluminum block that secures the ends at the headstock. They should move fairly easily. If not, try tapping them up from the bottom. The truss channels are open at the body end of the neck. You should not have to remove them completely, just a few inches up then slide them back in. Repeat this every 5 minutes until the glue sets. Moving the rods ensures that they won't become fused to the wood by the glue. This may not be a serious problem but I never wanted to find out the hard way. Most wood glues will require about 30 minutes of clamp time but require 24 hours of setting time before the lamination can be stressed. Be sure to push the rods back to their normal positions before removing the clamps. I am sure I left a few things out but those are the basics and should be enough to get you started should you decide to do it yourself. A good repair shop is your best bet though.

Thanks everybody for helping me out to keep my Rick4001 in good shape.
Suggestions are stille welcome.
Jos

Need also some help about setting the loudness from the E-string at the neck pickup.
The E-string is not so loud as the other strings.
Is it possible to get that little black pin up?
Sorry that I do not know what it is called in English.
But maybe you can help me .

Thanks Jos from Holland

The low-end of the 70's era 4001 is a little thin. That is just the way they are. Fortunately, there are some remedies. Raising the pole piece is possible but really does not help much. The surest way to improve the sound is to replace the 70's pickups with newer RIC pickups. The newer pickups are much hotter (louder) than the old ones. If this is not an option, you can try removing or shunting the bass-cut capacitor from the tone circuit. This procedure has been covered in several threads here lately. If that does not do what you want, you can apply a helper magnet to increase the pickp's output. I can give you guidance on the magnet should you need it.