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Finish stains

Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2002 8:02 am
by gshadoan
I have a White RIC bass, that has some finish problems. It appears that this paticular version of the finish, when perspired on, had a tendency to stain color, from what ever the user was wearing, and as well as the strap. What remedy can I use to remove these color stains? I have tried the Meguiers #7 with no apparent success. Is there a gritter version of this I should use, perhaps some steel wool. Mark, I could call you, if you want, or you could call me at 503-692-6226.
Thanks
Greg

Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2002 9:27 pm
by rick12dr
Grer, If you are going to use Meguiars, this advice from someone who's a polishing fanatic;
Do Not use the # 7 Meguiars; the # 5 is the Best Meguiars as it will clean up armpit/forearm "clouding", as well as the kinda waxy/film seen on new Ricks of the last 10-15 years.Meguiars # 9 is the other stuff to use; in my experince, it is more or less a finer version of the # 5. The # 7 seems to me to leave an unnatural "oily" or wet look that is not what clean, clear polished finish Should look like.
Whether or not Any of these products will successfully remedy clothing dye stains is another
matter entirely.

Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2002 4:07 am
by markthemd
Persperation chemically changes the finish , you will need to first clean the surface of all excess materials ...I use a de-greaser called NAPTHA aka VM&P Thinner .
Wash the surface with this .This will remove some dirt , tape gum ,general goo, funk and crud.

It will NOT react to the finish.
It is flammable , so have a fan running or open a window (good ventilation is necessary)

If you have a discoloration ...I use 2000 or 1500 grit sand paper .Sand the area with water and a little dishwashing soap added to the water .This will act as a lubricant and keep the paper from clogging (no Irish dancer needed for this job).

The sanding should be done with either a rubber block or if you are carefull and don't sand in one small spot , just folding a section into thirds and using your hand works fine.

You need to sand and check you progress frequently .

There is a surprising amount of clear on instruments , and USA made instruments have the color coats as the second coat of material .Asian instruments are color coated near the surface so this process will NOT work on those makes.

After sanding , I would use a 3M product that nearly EVERY autobody shop guy I know uses to final buff cars .....
Finesse-it #05928

It says right on the container "Contains NO silicone or wax.

I live across the street from a guy that runs/manages the largest autobody shop in the city of Everett Washington .This is his favorite stuff.
We discuss paints and 'compounds' frquently and he loves to see what I make or rebuild .
I also deal with other shop guys , and they tell me the same .We compare other /older product and return to this one .

The others are nice but I 'love' the 3M.