I saw this one on eBay today, and was alarmed at this seller's photo and description of his bass's truss rod problem.
What I want to know is, how bad off is this bass below?
Thanks,
Garry
Near the Breaking Point?
Moderator: jingle_jangle
Near the Breaking Point?
Mark,
I saw this one on eBay today, and was alarmed at this seller's photo and description of his bass's truss rod problem.
What I want to know is, how bad off is this bass below?
Thanks,
Garry
I saw this one on eBay today, and was alarmed at this seller's photo and description of his bass's truss rod problem.
What I want to know is, how bad off is this bass below?
Thanks,
Garry
The ideal mix leaves the bass player louder than the rest of the band put together!
I'm sure Mark will second this opinion; for starters, it looks obvious that there is little to no room to even get a nut driver in the access cavity to properly adjust the hex nuts.At the least,someone has tried to do adjusting, and have managed to bend the rods down and one looks like it should be pushed back into the rod slot.I can't tell you how many old Ricks I've seen that exhibited this very same problem, but fortunately, if you have the time and patience,
this situation Can be remedied.More proof that few understand what they're dealing with when
handed a problematic Rick.This is not impossible to deal with, but Fender and Gibson operating rules do not apply here.
this situation Can be remedied.More proof that few understand what they're dealing with when
handed a problematic Rick.This is not impossible to deal with, but Fender and Gibson operating rules do not apply here.
This was adjusted by someone NOT knowing how to 'work' the Rick system.
The rod nuts need to be removed ...I have a modified open ended wrench thatwith patience will take those nuts off .
I also use a padded U block on the back side of the neck , with a cork lined 10" radius block for the fretboard .
This gets clamped on BEFORE any work gets underway .WHY???? I do not want to stess the fretboard glue joint any more than it already is ... this is a moment that is famous for 'popping' the fretboard .
After the nuts are removed , the 1/4" long necked nut driver is used to pry up the bent rods. THEN and only then can the blocks be removed.
Then the rods are removed from the neck , and the threads examined for damage.
A 10/32 die is used to 'chase' the threads .
I then check out the neck .... I will assume that this needed more tension than it was generally designed for .
How to make this work ? a pair of #8 steel washers helps .But the aluminum bar may need replacing . I use either another piece of aircraft grade aluminum or brass and my replacement stock is 1/4" thick .This adds support to the threads.
I make my replacements to fit exactly in the end of the rod cavity , then drill the rod holes .I want the best fit I can get .
I wax the rods AFTER I bend a nice gentle arch in them .
On my bench is a neck rest that is made especially for Rickenbackers .This clamps the neck at the first to the 3rd fret and suspends the body in the air .This bends the neck using gravity .
Re-installing the rods with the bend is easy and must be done quickly to maintain this arch ...I then slip the bar into place and tighten the nuts .I get them really tight .That way , I can release the rods when it gets restrung.The steel washers take the punishment instead of the bar stock .
Then I remove the clamp holding the neck and re-install the strings .
Next , the rods need loosening (usually) .If they need more of an arch ...the strings get slackened and the rods removed and I bend more of an arch into them .
Some times this must be done 3 or 4 times to get it right.
I am so glad that these rods were discontinued .
They can be made to work ..... but what a pain.
The rod nuts need to be removed ...I have a modified open ended wrench thatwith patience will take those nuts off .
I also use a padded U block on the back side of the neck , with a cork lined 10" radius block for the fretboard .
This gets clamped on BEFORE any work gets underway .WHY???? I do not want to stess the fretboard glue joint any more than it already is ... this is a moment that is famous for 'popping' the fretboard .
After the nuts are removed , the 1/4" long necked nut driver is used to pry up the bent rods. THEN and only then can the blocks be removed.
Then the rods are removed from the neck , and the threads examined for damage.
A 10/32 die is used to 'chase' the threads .
I then check out the neck .... I will assume that this needed more tension than it was generally designed for .
How to make this work ? a pair of #8 steel washers helps .But the aluminum bar may need replacing . I use either another piece of aircraft grade aluminum or brass and my replacement stock is 1/4" thick .This adds support to the threads.
I make my replacements to fit exactly in the end of the rod cavity , then drill the rod holes .I want the best fit I can get .
I wax the rods AFTER I bend a nice gentle arch in them .
On my bench is a neck rest that is made especially for Rickenbackers .This clamps the neck at the first to the 3rd fret and suspends the body in the air .This bends the neck using gravity .
Re-installing the rods with the bend is easy and must be done quickly to maintain this arch ...I then slip the bar into place and tighten the nuts .I get them really tight .That way , I can release the rods when it gets restrung.The steel washers take the punishment instead of the bar stock .
Then I remove the clamp holding the neck and re-install the strings .
Next , the rods need loosening (usually) .If they need more of an arch ...the strings get slackened and the rods removed and I bend more of an arch into them .
Some times this must be done 3 or 4 times to get it right.
I am so glad that these rods were discontinued .
They can be made to work ..... but what a pain.
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!