Mark,
I suspect that that's what I'm dealing with on my 4003S. I'm encountering buzz at frets 4 thruu 7. I have changed strings from GHS Brite flats to Elixir 45-105 Rounds.
How does one deal with this?
Many Thanks,
Garry
S-Curved Neck?
Moderator: jingle_jangle
S-Curved Neck?
The ideal mix leaves the bass player louder than the rest of the band put together!
This goes back to 'SET-UP 101'
1- tune to pitch using your standard brand and gauge of string
2 -adjust truss rod(s)
3- check nut slot depth
4- set bridge height
5- lower pickups
6-Strobe tune/intonate
7- re set pickup height ,start with the bridge pickup first , then the neck .If you have three , then balance the neck and bridge first , then set the middle to your preference.Meaning ...if you never play it alone , then perhaps you may need it lower for more picking room , or for less 'out of phase tone' .
I think that you may have a truss rod /fretboard radius issue .
1- tune to pitch using your standard brand and gauge of string
2 -adjust truss rod(s)
3- check nut slot depth
4- set bridge height
5- lower pickups
6-Strobe tune/intonate
7- re set pickup height ,start with the bridge pickup first , then the neck .If you have three , then balance the neck and bridge first , then set the middle to your preference.Meaning ...if you never play it alone , then perhaps you may need it lower for more picking room , or for less 'out of phase tone' .
I think that you may have a truss rod /fretboard radius issue .
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
After checking all of those things , there is a slight possibility of a grain situation that may be causing this.
I am seeing more and more of this due to the quality of woods available and clear maple is not in the supplies that it once was .
Fender is also having troubles with this.
However...This may NOT be the case , but lets check everything.
Things to look for;
A continuous circle of dark grain in the middle of the neck .This appears like an island ... very noticable .
Next thing , look at the grain pattern at the body end .The neck area only ...
does it curl in a tight circle? is it straight?
does it have a gentle bend in the dark grain lines ?
If you have a tight circle pattern , this comes from the center of a tree or from a very young tree.
This wood may be 'clear' but the strength of such a tree is well know .
Ever see what a young tree does in the wind?
Let me know what you see ...Hopefully you have long grain lines .
I am seeing more and more of this due to the quality of woods available and clear maple is not in the supplies that it once was .
Fender is also having troubles with this.
However...This may NOT be the case , but lets check everything.
Things to look for;
A continuous circle of dark grain in the middle of the neck .This appears like an island ... very noticable .
Next thing , look at the grain pattern at the body end .The neck area only ...
does it curl in a tight circle? is it straight?
does it have a gentle bend in the dark grain lines ?
If you have a tight circle pattern , this comes from the center of a tree or from a very young tree.
This wood may be 'clear' but the strength of such a tree is well know .
Ever see what a young tree does in the wind?
Let me know what you see ...Hopefully you have long grain lines .
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
In that case , Lets start here .
When you hold down the E string at the first fret , and the last fret,at the same time (you might use a capo it makes this easier ) do you have any kind of a gap between the bottom of the string and the 12th fret ?
What about at the 5th fret?
You MUST check this with BOTH ends pressed down .
The string is a straightedge , and pressing it down shows how much of a dip in the neck there is.
If the string is touching at either point , then the truss rod(s) must be backed off.
If the string does NOT touch either place , then it should in theory be fine .However , you could have a loose fret .
You could have frets that are not level.
Does this buzzing happen when you are NOT plugged in?
Does it happen when you are plugged in?
When you hold down the E string at the first fret , and the last fret,at the same time (you might use a capo it makes this easier ) do you have any kind of a gap between the bottom of the string and the 12th fret ?
What about at the 5th fret?
You MUST check this with BOTH ends pressed down .
The string is a straightedge , and pressing it down shows how much of a dip in the neck there is.
If the string is touching at either point , then the truss rod(s) must be backed off.
If the string does NOT touch either place , then it should in theory be fine .However , you could have a loose fret .
You could have frets that are not level.
Does this buzzing happen when you are NOT plugged in?
Does it happen when you are plugged in?
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
So I have been thinking about this and there are only a few possibilites that this can be .
on the down side ;
1- the truss rods need to be loosened, or
2- you have loose frets, or
3- there is a hump in the neck at the 8th to 12th fret , and that is a surgical fix only.
On the up side ;
1-you just need a slight dressing of the frets , and some new strings
2- a complete set up
3-you need to plug in and just play (playing an unplugged instruments WILL buzz )
Worst case that it could be , you have a hump , it's out of warranty , and to fix this , the fretboard needs to be planed under string tension .This simulates the 'hump' that is there WITH strings tuned to pitch, then sand this hump out of the fretboard , refret , respray the fretboard and set it up .
Sound like a horrible thing , but in reality ...this isnotthat uncommon from any maker .Wood has a mind of it's own .It move where it wants to.
This is why I will NOT make a neck from figured maple.Where does the grain think it is going?
on the down side ;
1- the truss rods need to be loosened, or
2- you have loose frets, or
3- there is a hump in the neck at the 8th to 12th fret , and that is a surgical fix only.
On the up side ;
1-you just need a slight dressing of the frets , and some new strings
2- a complete set up
3-you need to plug in and just play (playing an unplugged instruments WILL buzz )
Worst case that it could be , you have a hump , it's out of warranty , and to fix this , the fretboard needs to be planed under string tension .This simulates the 'hump' that is there WITH strings tuned to pitch, then sand this hump out of the fretboard , refret , respray the fretboard and set it up .
Sound like a horrible thing , but in reality ...this isnotthat uncommon from any maker .Wood has a mind of it's own .It move where it wants to.
This is why I will NOT make a neck from figured maple.Where does the grain think it is going?
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
Resolution…
Cause: Unevenly tightened truss rods. I detuned, loosened both, gave each 1/8 turn, tuned up, tried it out, repeated till it just started to audibly buzz, and closed it up.
Dodged the bullet on the Rick Root Canal!!
Garry
Cause: Unevenly tightened truss rods. I detuned, loosened both, gave each 1/8 turn, tuned up, tried it out, repeated till it just started to audibly buzz, and closed it up.
Dodged the bullet on the Rick Root Canal!!
Garry
The ideal mix leaves the bass player louder than the rest of the band put together!