Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Hi everyone.
Firstly, great site! I often read the posts and have used much of the info here, I've only just registered as I felt now that I am a true Ric player(Been playing a Montezuma Brown 4003 since December 04)I'll join the forum.
Ok, here is my question. I've been playing a 300watt Solid state amp for a couple of years but feel it is lacking in its ability to give my Ric its fair dues, it does not sound "right". I'm aware of the benifits of Tube amps with guitar as I've been a active musician and sound engineer for a couple of years and I am pretty aware that Ric love tube amps to give them there full tone. I've used and engineered a couple of ampegs in the past but I have never used a B15-R. I am pretty interested to hear all you opinions on this amp especially used with a Ric as I am finding myself being tempted by them, simply cos I like the spec and the look and the fact that they have a pretty cool history.
Ok, well, thanks for your time and I'm looking forward to reading your informed opinions and your advice.
Thanks a lot.
Steve

Welcome! I am like you, fascinated by the fliptops, and since I have never used one, I look forward to the comments! I know that a few here on the forum own the vintage B-15 N.

Steve, how old is your 4003 ? Any of these built after 1990 should be making you very happy in terms of sound because the .0047 cap isn't there. Any possibility you have a pre-1990 with the cap ?

His Monte (2003) won't have that cap, so that's not the issue.

I'm sure I would love the sound of my Monte through a big Ampeg (or even a little one), but I'm not in a situation where a big amp makes sense -- or that I could tote one around. "I'm gettin' too old for this s***!"

Where's Bob Young?!

Hi.
My Ric is a January 04 model and sounds absolutly brilliant. I am having a bit of a time though setting her up properly, new make and guage of strings have neccesitated(sp?) a set-up and well, I'm doing it myself and getting there slowly, getting the hang of two trussrods aint easy, anyway, as long as I can get rid of the fretbuzz I'll be happy!!Nearly there.
Steve

Hey Rob!

I don't mean to be a wet blanket, but I have two '87 4003s(July and Aug) that weren't born with a cap.

One more question, whats the "JD" written in black marker on the bit of ,asking tape under my truss cover? Seems kinda cool, like a personal touch from the factory.

All basses made after 1984 are capless except the new C series (I have been told), and if I were going to spend that kind of money on a tube Ampeg I'd get a 70's SVT set up, or if you are afriad on them (they are built like tanks) I'd buy a new SVT-CL with one of the 8 x 10 cabs for just a little more money than the B15-R's. Look around on ebay, you can get deals especially on the cabs as people can't ship them, I once bought a late 70's 8 x 10 in perfect working condition for 200 bucks. The B-15-R is really just a V4-BH head with a 15" and a horn. For a few more bucks you can get the real deal, there is a big difference between an SVT and a V4-B, I like both but 100 watts isn't always enough. On the other hand they are cool looking amps and you can get extension speakers with them but you're looking at bucks there, might as well get the SVT.

With the dual truss rods most of the time you need to tighten the E side a little more than the G side and they interact also. Make sure they are both approximately equal in tension, turn one a little then turn the other etc., it is possible to hold the neck with only one by mistake (I have done it)

Oh incidently a B-15S made in the 70's is rated at 60 watts RMS and is a really cool amp and has the original sound and look, the tolex is black like all 70's Ampegs though. They are a little rare but usually sell for about 600 bucks which is half what you'll pay for a B-15R, buy two and they'll blow away the B-15-R.

Oh welcome by the way, you'll like it here of you like Rics. All sorts of info you'll need and then some.

Hey Bob.
Thanks for the Info and the advice. I guess i'll go into London tomorrow and check out the various Ampeg setups and see what I like most.
As for the Truss Rods...OMG!! Its scary stuff man!! Will it harm my Rics Neck if one rod is basically just hanging loose? they both feel really loose as it is and the neck adjusts really easily with only the slightest of rotations on the truss nut, I'll need real nimble tips to feel if one is actually loose.
I'll keep at it, never gonna let anyone touch my baby...well maybe if I REALLY cant get it setup correctly!! ;o))

JD?

Jack Daniels...

I second Bob's suggestions. If ya can swing it, the SVT w/8x10s.

Whatcha say?

Hey Jared. I'm thinking I'm gonna check out a SVT-CL with 1x15 & 4x10 cabs tomorrow at my local music store, works out a bit more but its a whole lot more rig for the money, will post results tomorrow after my excursions.

When I tried them, I liked the 8X10 best, but the 410HLF was pretty darned close. Too bad its so heavy(110lbs) and chunky. My knee was in pain for two weeks after I brought it home and down my basement stairs. Have a friend help(or be large and strong!)

An 8 x 10 is a lot more cab than a 15 and a 4 x 10. An 8 x 10 is almost equivalent in cone area to 4 x 15"s. You're getting an extra 15" speaker with an 8 x 10.
If you have a loose truss rod I would snug it or them up, you must have very light gauge strings on your bass.