Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I think I have posed this question before, but nonetheless, here it goes again. No satisfactory answer was given the first time around as I recall.
My 360V has a slight flaw in the finish, not much larger than the head of an eraser but it's there, visible on the upper right side (for a righty)near the nut and close to the board. What, if anything, can be done, other than a total refin of the neck?

Stan, can you describe this flaw or post a photo or two of it?

There are different procedures for repairing each type of flaw, and many types of minor flaws can be repaired by a careful owner at home with commonly-available materials, without resorting to a trip to the luthier's or repair shop.

Is it a chip, a dent, a discoloration, a piece of dirt, a scratch or scrape, or ???...

Sorry, for my non-descriptive description. The flaw is in the coloring, no dents, dings or scratches. The spot is simply void of color, but it does not 'to the feel' or 'to the eye' appear to be the result of wear, because the conversion varnish over the area is still very much there. Does this make more sense?

OK, Stan, that's a beginning. Now, what color are we talking about?

Again, pictures sure would help, my friend...

A spot completely devoid of color. Are the edges sharp on the colorless area or are they blurry?

Help me out here, Stan...

Okay, here is a pic. The area almost looks like a 'glare' spot but it's the actual area. Hope this is of some help. It is the area just between the first and second fret, not the glare you see on the binding. It's the near 'yellowish' portion on the neck.

This looks like the FG tint was sanded through before the clearcoat varnish was put on, Stan, or possibly the guitar was refinished improperly at some time in the past?

I don't like to guess at history, so let's move on, to solutions.

A perfect repair is possible by a luthier who is good at finishes. First the neck should be dulled with 000 steel wool, just for a couple inches either side of the flaw.

The FG tint needs to be matched, then airbrushed on very carefully, then a catalyzing clearcoat in two double coats only for an inch or so, with the new clearcoat feathering out onto the dulled area of the old varnish.

One or two days' drying time, and a nice color-sanding and buff out and it would be virtually undetectable.

And there you go! Gracias, Paul! I will check around with a couple of guys here who do this. I just want to find out which one is best at his trade and will work with your solution.

De nada, but don't do nada.

Good luck, Mr. Stan.

So Paul, did Stan find that guy yet? LOL!

Awful quiet on this thread lately...

It's flawed!!

I have a fireglo 4003s5 that I'm wanted to have some nicks touched up on, and I'm not having any luck finding anyone in Austin or Houston who wants to tackle it. Are people afraid of fireglo? I don't want a refin as the finish is great....just have some edge nicks that need attention. Anyone have any referrals in the Austin/Houston area?

Fireglo is very tough to touch up invisibly. Can be done, mind you, but most luthiers are not finishing specialists (it's a small part of their job, and the most unpredictable, hence the distaste for spending time with it).

Each nick has to be treated as a separate case, and a dye mixed just for it, then the dye needs to be carefully applied--and here to do it properly, the nick should be cleaned and masked and the dye airbrushed into the nick until it's a perfect match, and then the clear coat needs to be dabbed in, and levelled, and polished...

Burst finishes are tough. Also tough are kandies like Ruby, and metallics like turquoise. JG is a snap!

Thanks, Paul, thought nobody was looking!

The nicks on my FG are all on the outside edge (where binding would be, except it's a 4003s), so the color is reasonably uniform. I still can't find anybody willing to tackle it, so I am contemplating trying something out on my own with a dye/superglue effort, although I hate to do so. The red on my FG is pretty deep, almost maroon....any ideas on where to start as a coloring agent?

Here is a picture of the instrument in question: