Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I have a standard Ric 6 string bridge, already shaped but with no slots cut, that I want to fit to one of my 345's.

Anyone any idea on what tools I would need to do this myself & any specific meauserments/calculations that I should bear in mind?

the proper way is to use special files ... but I use a dremmel tool ...

Tony, I would hesitate to use a Dremel tool for this if you've not used one before, as they are a bit hard to control for a novice with them. (Sorry, Jeff--I say this from experience, although a Dremel is quite indispensible in one's tool box!)

Special files are necessary to fine-tune a nut, but to "nick" the saddles, a triangular jeweler's or needle file is the tip. (This type of file is between 4' and 8" long, and can be bought from a specialized tool factors' or possibly at a DIY center. They come in sets of various shapes.

First you must use a long scale (ruler) to find out whether the bridge is centered with respect to the fretboard. Lay the scale the long way from the nut to the bridge, which you can tape into place with a masking tape strip running over the saddles, perpendicular to the run of the strings. The scale should have one edge centered on the nut on one end (midway between the "G" and "D" string slots.), and the other end's edge centered on the center of the fretboard at the last fret. Tape the scale in place onto the fretboard so it doesn't shift and mark the center saddle (over the masking tape is OK).

Now you can remove the scale, but leave the bridge taped into place. You may notice that the mark you made is not in the exact center of the bridge--that's OK, unless it's more than 2mm from center. Refer to your old saddle for distance between the strings, and now mark the string locations on the saddles, using your center mark to locate the center of the pattern of string slots.

Now you can use the triangular file to make slight grooves at each string mark. The bass string slots should be deeper than the treble string slots. I'd recommend .5-.7mm deep for the low "E", as a starting point, and more like .1-.2mm for the high "E", with the rest falling in between.

Thanks to both of you for your help, it is much appreciated. It is something that I fancy doing myself, 'though I must confess that although I am a pro player & also have a resonably good ear when it comes to sound, I am VERY weary about this sort of thing & envy those that can do it. I'll let you know how it goes.

This is an area where I feel very inferior to fellow forum members expertise....

However, if you are slotting a nut or bridge saddles for a bass, the slots are best cut with the proper size nut files to a depth of about half the thickness of the string. For a five string bass I like to keep the distance between the strings the same, rather than the distance between the center of each string the same, at the bridge, but most importantly at the nut. The triangle shaped file is good to start the slot, but a slot that the string sits neatly into while making complete contact with the string is the ticket. I got my nut files from Stew-Mac. Know the gauges of your strings before you order.