Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Did the v-series instruments use a finish that was different from the usual conversion varnish used on most modern Rics? I've got a bass with a spot that is worn down to the wood that I would at least like to get a clear coat on to protect it. I read John Hall's post from a while back stating that cyanoacrylate glue worked well for little touch ups (dings, etc.), but what about for larger spots? I have some experience with finishing, but not on a Ric. Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Super glue will turn yellow and even orange in some cases, after the passage of about 10 years or so.

I believe this "tip" started with Dan Erlewine (his column was where I read it first, back in the late '80s(?)) I've been using copious amounts of super glue in my profession (prototype builder) since the early 1970s, when it was called Eastman 910. Older projects which I've seen which were assembled with this stuff (chemically termed "cyanoacrylate") display this color change.

In any event, if you're gonna use it, do so for tiny chips only.

You have what sounds like a wear spot. The first thing you need to do is determine if the maple has absorbed any dirt or sweat which would cause it to turn grayish. Dirt needs to be removed, and that is done by sanding carefully. In severe cases, a wood bleach can be used to remove the grunge from the pores from the wood. Then the guitar should be prepped by sanding it back about 1" all around the spot to dull the finish and aid adhesion of the new CV. Then CV is sprayed, allowed to cure fully, flattened with wet-or-dry sandpaper on a stiff foam block, and buffed back to full gloss.

While you're at it, now's the time to buff the entire finish, clean the fretboard, and restring...

If you're really up for it, you can write me for more comprehensive instructions.

Under no circumstances would I ever attempt to fill a larger wear area with super glue. This would be the worst kind of bodge imaginable and would permanently mess up the guitar's finish. Using a non-catalyzing, hardware store varnish will not work, either.

FYI, the 3M CA-4 "Pronto" cyanoacrylate won't yellow. There's almost no guitar that we've made in the last 20 years that doesn't have some kind of touchup with this material, albeit almost microscopic in most cases.

But Paul's right, many brands do yellow, especially the local hardware/dimestore varieties.

John, thanks for the reference.

My usual brands are Satellite City and Zap-CA (both well-respected "pro" brands, although it seems not for guitar use!), and have been since the mid-eighties.

But it looks like a change to 3M "Pronto" is in the offing.

I don't in any case recommend the hardware store brands for three main reasons:

1. They are general purpose CA adhesives, and are somewhere between water-thin and gap-filler in viscosity, so are ill-suited for some tasks.

2. The darned little tubes and bottles they come in are too small for accurate flow control, leading to drips and drops where you don't want them.

3. Dubious freshness unless dated.

We use the Satellite City thick stuff around the shop, not on the finish and not often on a guitar, but as a gap-filler on tools, CNC tooling or other items needing repairs around the shop. I just used it to repair a crack on a sump pump!

BTW, on finishes, we never use accelerator, which it's been suggested, might be part of the yellowing problem.

Accelerator goes stale, and I believe that this is part of the yellowing thing, too. It also can cause the CA to foam and bubble, which is definitely undesirable where finishes are concerned.