Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

What would cause only the B notes (esp.on the E D and G strings) to sound kinda dead.. I just replaced the strings and now im having this problem.(Carvin rounds 40-100's) would differnt strings fix this.. I just brought this bass (4003)and the neck looks great and the action is where I like it... so what can be done?
thanks

This is an issue of mass .

Fender maple neck basses all seem to have a dead G string .

Ricks have an intermittant dead spot .

Some do ... some don't .

A method used to 'fix' this when I worked there was to route a hole underthe fretboard inbetween inlays at the 4th and 6th 'frets' and pour lead into the hole.

This actually worked rather well.

However lead fumes....hhhhmmmm , not good . I don't know when this stopped .

The new rod sytem has it's own set of rules .

Many makers have tried Graphite to deal with this . Go to the Warmoth website to see what Ken and Paul have come up with and their reasons 'why'. It is very enlightening.

Good sound R&D.

AS to a specific answer (I'm sure JH would like me to address this directly) ...good question.

Some things to try BEFORE major surgery.

1- make sure the strings seat in the bottom of the slot , not in a 'V' groove . This makes the string resonate better at the nut . A more solid transferance of energy.

2- Same thing at the saddle ... a 'v' groove is not as solid as a round slot.

3- does the saddle assembly wooble around ? If so , there are some things to make this happen and keep it 'stock' looking.
See posts about this from Bob Terhune and his bass.

4- The rods MUST have some tension on them .Loose rods help create dead spots .However if the neck is straight ... don't go tweeking the rods .

5- a 'quality' string is needed . Old funky strings that are recycled or you got from the cheapo bin , generally are 'beginner' grade . Get real strings . Any of the major makers of strings (not the distributors) are using CNC tooling and supplies made with CNC tooling . These are the most consistent string you can get and that accuracey actually helps .

After these things ... surgery .

hope these are helpful to you .

I would also say ...contact one of the guys at Rick service and see what it is they suggest . They may have a new trick up their sleeves .

Hi Mark.
checked 1,2,3, and 4 (the v slots are more like rounded v's) and changed the strings yet again... didnt find any thing in reference to Bob Terhune that helped and also checked the warmoth website nothing helpful there that I could find.. so what would be the Major Surgery?

At Warmoth check out the construction of their 5 and 6 string bass necks .

The bridge thing that I did for Bob Terhune and countless others is this .

1- If it was made in the 1970's , the bridges are too close to the neck for ANY brand or make of string .
There is a section of wood that is visible in the mute area , that needs to be out from under the bridge . I move the bridge away .just enough to still keep this route cover ,but no more than that .
2-I then modify the E saddle to allow maximum travel in the chassis.I remove 1/3 of the shaft that hangs into the saddle chassis. THen round the corners so it can then go all the way back and then actually hang over the chassis if needed.
3- I change the allen/hex height screws out for either longer standard sized screws (6/32) oor enlarge them to 8/32 .
This change to the larger size requires drilling and threadin gof the hole.
4- I then drill out the screw holder hole in the bridge base for the saddle chassis height screws . This allows them to pass through the base into the route below .
Directly under that hole I drill and tap for a 10/32 hex headed stainless steel screw. The height adjustment screw will seat into that . This makes the Base of the bridge an alignment plate and HOLDS the saddle chassis screws in an upright position at all times !!!! It also transfer resonance to the body ....giving more sustain .

5- I then reshape the saddles . When I worked there we used a half round file to shape these . I now use a series of round parallel files to allow the string to sit in the bottom of the groove , there by having a more solid connection . The string is never seeking lower 'ground' ... it is sitting at the lowest point already.
6- The adjustement screws and the whole assembly can then be turned to face the neck so the length /intonation screws can be adjusted from the neck side . There is a mod that must be done to the plate and this has been posted by Peter at the Registration page . Peter ... I know you are out there . Can you post the link ???

Thanks . If you have any questions about this , I have plenty of my own photos , I can email them to you (who ever you are ).

The surgery is this , remove the fretboard , change the truss rods .
Inlay a bar oof steel 1/8" X 3/8" X the length of the fret board .

On the old style rodded necks , I inlay this inbetween the rods and epoxy it in place .

If the G string is THE dead area , then I add a piece/section of graphite under the G string from the 4th fret to the 15th fret.

It is a major under taking .But I do preserve the original look .

Personally ... I''d go shopping for something that does not have the problem .

Hi Mark,
Could you email me those pictures. My email is [email protected]
thank you so much for your helpful information.