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Jazzmaster Set-Ups
Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 6:23 am
by squid
This damn thing is why I have a 650C VH on order. I really like the sound of my Jazzmaster, a 1962 re-issue made in 2004, but the constant tweaking of the set-up is driving me mad. I have never owned such a finicky, high-maintenance guitar. The current problem is that the action is too high. I have the bridge lowered about as far as it can go, but I've still got big, big string clearance. The neck has some bow in it, as per a usual Fender set-up, but it's still buzzing up past the twelfth fret. Should I relax the truss rod further? What about adding some paper below the neck to try to adjust the neck angle? Or, this is my big hope, is there a decent replacement bridge out there that has height adjustable saddles? (The original bridge was garbage, so I swapped it for a Mustang bridge, a fairly common modification on this model. The saddles prevent the strings from slipping right off, but they're not height adjustable.) I'm going to do a Kurt Cobain on this thing if I can't get it figured out. I've already got access to the usual Jazzmaster sites, but I'm looking for any tricks that individual owners may have discovered. Thanks.
Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 7:12 am
by jingle_jangle
I'm a big fan of Jazzmasters and Jaguars and it is common for all these problems to surface at one time or another.
You don't mention what strings you're using. .010s or .011s? Flat or round?
My diagnosis of this would start with neck angle, both with the strings loose and tuned to pitch. This will enable you to determine how much your strings are pulling on the neck. I do this by laying the guitar on a perfectly flat surface, on a couple of pieces of plexiglas or tempered masonite sheet (ID plate keeps it from lying flat otherwise). Check with an accurate scale or a height gauge if you have access to one.
I assume you've already checked relief. If it's OK, then it does sound to me as if your neck angle is wrong. I'd check the fretboard at several points along its length. Pop the neck (have you had it off yet?) and check the factory shims. Personally, I use thin brass shim stock, available at home centers, and hardware and hobby stores. I buy a packet of assorted thicknesses. This stuff can be cut with scissors or even an Exacto knife. I can't understand the use of paper for this. This guitar has a nice, long neck pocket, so you can shim to your heart's content. Experiment, and to avoid stringing it after each trial shimming, take measurements each time instead. When you think you've got it close, string it up and have a go.
"The original bridge was garbage". I've heard this sooo many times. So, folks replace them with Mustang bridges (Mustangs cost half as much as Jags in the old days), because the adjustment screws on the old bridges rattled and strings popped out. If you go back to the original bridge, you gain height adjustment and the rattling can be fixed.
Install the old bridge again and set string separation first. File the string notches in the threaded saddle drums deeper. That will cure the popping out problem. Next, set the string heights, and after each, apply a bit of red Loctite to the adjusting Allen screw and let it penetrate. Don't use a whole lot, though.
Now, you can play, play, play, very aggressively, and it should stay in place.
Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 9:32 am
by squid
Thanks, Paul. Even before I read this I went home and switched the Mustang bridge back out for the original bridge. I'm not an overly aggressive player, so I figured the added adjustability would outweigh the string slippage problem. The strings are sitting more in line with the radius of the fretboard now, but it's still too high. I'm going to swing by the hardware store and pick up some brass shim stock tonight, as well as a new 0.5 mm hex key for the saddles. Where would I locate the shim stock department-wise? All I have available is a Home Depot. Also, what sort of file should I be looking for? Is this a Stew-Mac sort of thing or can I find something that will make do?
I have indeed popped the neck off. A very traumatic experience for someone who normally plays set-neck hollowbodies. I probably lost some of the paper shims in doing so, and that might be responsible for some of the buzzing up the neck. I suppose I should be shimming towards the front of the neck cavity in order to raise the neck angle?
The guitar had round-wound 11's on it prior to last night's attempted set-up. The replacement set is half of a Pyramid flatwound 12 string set. It was all I had on hand last night, and I could never bear the thought of straining the neck of my 370/12 with them. They seem to be sitting in the nut very well, and they sound absolutely fabulous through those Jazzmaster pick-ups. Nice and full.
Addendum: The new set is a "light" set of flatwounds. I can't remember the gauges precisely, but they'd be pretty close to 11's.
Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 1:20 pm
by jingle_jangle
Before you start shimming, do bolt up the neck, measure it with the strings and without, after you take the strings off. Measure at 12th fret and at nut--this is another guitar that has the neck parallel with the body, like a Rick. I'm looking at my CAR Jag right now, and with the neck set with very little relief (mine has .003-.005, I'm guessing), you should have about .150" between the bridge and the pickguard, both sides. You can balance it out with the saddles later. Now you can start messing with shims one way or the other, if needed.
I would not recommend .012s on a JM with the full-length scale. I'd try D'Addario Chrome Flats in .011"--they are heaven-sent for this guitar and those juicy single coils. Yet they've got plenty of bite for scorching if you're so inclined.
I believe that you will not get a good set-up with .012s on the JM. So get the "right" strings, measure the neck, set the relief first, and then play with shimming if you must.
The shim stock you want is in the K & N rack display, in the specialty hardware section. Ask a clerk.
Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:01 am
by steve_hershberger
Another shim idea that I've used on my Fenders that needed it - get various thicknesses of those big triangular guitar picks to try out. Another thing I've done is cut up plastic bottles - like for sodas, dishwashing detergent, Clorox, etc.
You can cut any of these things with scissors.
Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 2:07 pm
by scott_s
Paul, not to pick nits, but the "right" strings in 1962 WERE .012s.

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 2:25 pm
by jingle_jangle
Pick all you want. I'm going from my own experiences with these, dating back to 1964. I'd run .012s on a Jaguar, but not on a 25.5" Jazzmaster. My own Jag does just fine on the .011 flatties.
Fender necks are like railroad ties, anyway, but I'm wondering about intonation...