Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Feeling like a beginner again...

Well, just had the "educational" experience of changing the strings for the first time on my 36-12. I'd read several of the posts here and thought I knew what I was doing..haha!

I figured, "hey! I'm no beginner. I've been changing 6 and 12 string guitars since LBJ was president. This'll be no biggie." Wrong!

To be clear, the intent of this post is NOT to seek sympathy. On the contrary, it is to pay my respect to all you veteran Ric owners (and to forewarn any other newbie Ric owners who think they already know how to change these strings!)

I decided, after weighing the pros and cons, to remove all 12 strings at once and use the "masking tape" method of attaching the new ones to the tailpiece.

My first "ah-ha!" was trying to remove the original strings from the recessed (horizontal) tuners. They had bee nicely double-wrapped through the hole, making them as secure as Fort Knox and about as easy to extricate. Out to the garage to find my pair of baby needle nose pliers (which didn't turn up for a few days...) Finally used a pair of hemostats (never know when I might need to remove some sutures around the house or clamp an artery (LOL).)

After finally removing the old strings, I diligently taped the new ends to the tailpiece, placed a capo on the neck.

First big mistake was doing the standard (vertical) tuners before the (horizontal ones). I found, after the E, A and D pairs that I'd accidentally run the higher octave strings OVER the lower ones, so that they were binding the other strings when I tried to increase the tension. Off they went...as I worried that the "kinks" in the ends of the strings would cause them to break once I put them back on and tuned them up.

With those fixed, I started doing the G, B and E strings. Next huge mistake, partially attributed to having bifocals that don't function well for close-up string work: I'd put half of them on when I realized that I'd reversed which of the pairs went on the vertical and which went on the horizontal tuners. (ouch) Worse yet, I'd already trimmed them, so that several were not long enough to reach their proper tuning pegs. Off they went, four of them destined for the trash can. Fortunately, I had some extra strings to cannibalize and redo the B pair and E pair.

By the time I'd finished those, I'd learned some valuable lessons. I think the next change will go a lot smoother!

I find that it is quicker to order a new 12 string from Rickenbacker than re-string the one that you already have, after all you should get the new one in a year or two!

What I usually do is remove the "R" (Or trapeze) tailpiece, place all the strings in their slots, then put a piece of masking tape under the ball ends perpendicular across the tailpiece. Attach and tune, then remove the tape. Been doing that for 20 years, and it works great! Thanks, Christian

I was always able to do it without the use of masking tape. Of course, by "always", I mean the TWO times I changed strings in the 2 years I owned my 370/12!

I recently switched from a 370/12 to a 660/12. I haven't changed the strings yet - the trapeze looks a bit daunting. Any advice?

The capo makes all the differance in holding the tension. I can't string one up without the capo.

Cole

When using a capo, where would you place, right next to the nut?

I have (what I think) are similar problems in stringing my bouzouki. Sure, there are only 8 strings on a bouzouki but in general, it may be the same principle (again, I think-I've never strung a Rick 12 but from everything I've read on this forum it sounds analagous to my bouzouki stringing experiences). I solicit an extra set of hands, namely my 11 year old daughter, who keeps intelligent tension on select strings when needed and gets her little fingers in between strings to keep them from overlapping when they shouldn't and guides them gently when they should. Anybody else use the "11-year-old-daughter-with-the-little-fingers-and-the-easily- guided-mind" approach to stringing their axes? Maybe it only applies to 8 string Flat Backed Irish Bouzoukis but I'd bet it beats a cold capo any day!

"I find that it is quicker to order a new 12 string from Rickenbacker than re-string the one that you already have, after all you should get the new one in a year or two!"

Peter, that's the funniest thing I've read in days!

Bill, no I have not tried your system. A while back I traded my 11 year olds in for older model teens thinking they'd be worth more because they were a bit older. You know, the vintage thing. Bad idea. Any mention of the 4-letter word that begins with "w" and ends with "k" promptly results in all of them running for their car keys and vacating the premisses. That's one advantage of a cold capo: always there when you need it!

any one else have a problem with keeping the neck straight on the twelve? I had mine setup about a month ago and it already has a bit of bowing that hinders playability. I downtune a whole step too........

John: I think you will find that the trapeze is much friendlier than the "R" tailpiece when changing strings on the Rickenbacker 12 string. When I restring, I do it one string pair at a time which allows you to work with a stable tailpiece.

I have to adjust my truss rods all the time with the 12. It's pretty easy once you know how to do it. I strongly recomend Roger McGuinn's video on this very subject.

Cole

Having just bought a 360-12 three weeks ago, I would love to know if most folks here downtune theirs. I have to do that with my Fender acoustic 12-string, and it works wonders.

Why do you say "have to" with your Fender?

I do not tune my RIC down. It is designed to be tuned to concert pitch.

I suggest buying and selling used RIC 12-strings as a training method for stringing. I can change a 12-string set in 20 minutes flat with no capo or tape.